A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
- Page 61 of 185 - First - Home
The Finest Of All Was Certainly That Belonging To The Mandarin
Howqua.
The house itself was tolerably spacious, one story high,
with very wide, splendid terraces.
The windows looked into the
inner courts, and the roof was like those in European buildings,
only much flatter. The sloping roofs, with their multitude of
points and pinnacles, with their little bells and variegated tiles,
are only to be found in the temples and country-houses, but never in
the usual residences. At the entrance there were two painted gods:
these, according to the belief of the Chinese, keep off evil
spirits.
The front part of the house consisted of several reception rooms,
without front walls, and immediately adjoining them, on the ground
floor, elegant parterres; and on the first floor magnificent
terraces, which were also decorated with flowers, and afforded a
most splendid view over the animated scene on the river, the
enchanting scenery around, and the mass of houses in the villages
situated about the walls of Canton.
Neat little cabinets surrounded these rooms, from which they were
only separated by walls that in many cases were adorned with the
most artistic paintings, and through which the eye could easily
penetrate. The most remarkable of these walls were those composed
of bamboos, which were as delicate as a veil, and plentifully
ornamented with painted flowers, or beautifully written proverbs.
A numberless quantity of chairs and a great many sofas were ranged
along the walls, from which I inferred that the Chinese are as much
accustomed to large assemblages as ourselves. I observed some arm-
chairs most skilfully cut out of a single piece of wood; others with
seats of beautiful marble-slabs; and others again of fine coloured
tiles or porcelain. Among various objects of European furniture, we
saw some handsome mirrors, clocks, vases, and tables of Florentine
mosaic, or variegated marble. There was also a most extraordinary
collection of lamps and lanterns hanging from the ceilings, and
consisting of glass, transparent horn, and coloured gauze or paper,
ornamented with glass beads, fringe, and tassels. Nor was there any
scarcity of lamps on the walls, so that when the apartments are
entirely lighted up, they must present a fairy-like appearance.
As we had been fortunate enough to reach this house without being
stoned, we were emboldened to visit the Mandarin Howqua's large
pleasure-garden, situated on a branch of the Pearl stream, about
three-quarters of a mile from the house. We had, however, hardly
entered the branch of the river, before the crew wanted to turn
back, having observed a mandarin's junk, with all its flags hoisted,
a signal that the owner himself was on board. They were unwilling
to venture on conveying us Europeans past the vessel, for fear they
should be punished, or stoned to death, along with ourselves, by the
people. We obliged them to proceed, passed close by the junk, and
then landed, and continued our excursion on foot. A large crowd of
people soon collected in our rear, and began pushing the children up
against us, in order to excite our rage; but arming ourselves with
patience, we moved quietly on, and reached, without any accident,
the garden gates, which we instantly closed behind us.
The garden was in a perfect state of cultivation, but without the
least pretension to taste in its arrangement. On every side were
summer-houses, kiosks, and bridges, and all the paths and open spots
were lined with large and small flower-pots, in which were flowers
and dwarfed fruit-trees of every description.
The Chinese are certainly adepts in the art of diminishing the size
of, or rather crippling their trees, many of which very often
scarcely attain a height of three feet. These dwarf trees are very
prevalent in their gardens, and preferred to the most magnificent
and shady trees of a natural size. These lilliputian alleys can
hardly be considered in good taste, but it is most remarkable with
what a large quantity of beautiful fruit the tiny branches are
laden.
Besides these toys we also observed figures of all descriptions,
representing ships, birds, fish, pagodas, etc., cut out of foliage.
In the heads of the animals were stuck eggs, with a black star
painted on them to represent the eyes.
There was also no scarcity of rocks, both single and in groups,
ornamented with flower-pots, as well as little figures of men and
animals, which can be removed at pleasure, so as to form new
combinations, a kind of amusement of which the Chinese ladies are
said to be very fond. Another source of entertainment, no less
popular, as well among the ladies as the gentlemen, consists in
kite-flying, and they will sit for hours looking at their paper
monsters in the air. There is a large open spot set apart for this
purpose in the garden of every Chinese nobleman. We noticed an
abundance of running water and ponds, but we did not observe any
fountains.
As everything had passed off so well, Herr von Carlowitz proposed
that we should go and see the garden of the Mandarin Puntiqua, which
I was very anxious to do, as the mandarin had ordered a steam-boat
to be built there by a Chinese, who had resided thirteen years in
North America, where he had studied.
The vessel was so far advanced that it was to be launched in a few
weeks. The artist showed us his work with great satisfaction, and
was evidently very much pleased at the praise we bestowed upon him
for it. He attached great importance to his knowledge of the
English language, for when Herr von Carlowitz addressed him in
Chinese, he answered in English, and requested us to continue the
conversation in that idiom. The machinery struck us as not being
constructed with the usual degree of neatness for which the Chinese
are famous, and also appeared far too large for the small vessel for
which it was intended.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 61 of 185
Words from 61269 to 62268
of 187810