A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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They Are, However, Far Behind-Hand In Gold Or Silver Work, Which Is
Generally Heavy And Tasteless; But Then Again, They Have Attained
Great Celebrity By Their Porcelain, Which Is Remarkable Not Only For
Its Size, But For Its Transparency.
It is true that vases and other
vessels four feet high are neither light nor transparent; but cups
and other small objects can only be compared to glass for fineness
and transparency.
The colours on them are very vivid, but the
drawings very stiff and bad.
In the manufacture of silks and crape shawls, the Chinese are
unsurpassable; the latter especially, in beauty, tastefulness, and
thickness, are far preferable to those made in England or France.
The knowledge of music, on the other hand, is so little developed,
that our good friends of the Celestial Empire might almost, in this
respect, be compared to savages - not that they have no instruments,
but they do not know how to use them. They possess violins,
guitars, lutes (all with strings or wires), dulcimers, wind
instruments, ordinary and kettle-drums, and cymbals, but are neither
skilled in composition, melody, nor execution. They scratch,
scrape, and thump upon their instruments in such a manner, as to
produce the finest marrowbone-and-cleaver kind of music imaginable.
During my excursions up and down the Pearl stream, I had frequent
opportunities of hearing artistic performances of this description
on board the mandarin and flower-boats.
In all kinds of deception the Chinese are great adepts, and
decidedly more than a match for any Europeans. They have not the
slightest sense of honour, and if you detect them, content
themselves with saying: "You are more clever or cunning than I." I
was told that when they have any live stock, such as calves or pigs,
for sale, they compel them, as they are disposed of by weight, to
swallow stones or large quantities of water. They also know how to
blow out and dress stale poultry, so as to make it look quite fresh
and plump.
But it is not the lower classes alone that indulge in cheating and
fraud; these agreeable qualities are shared by the highest
functionaries. It is a well-known fact, for instance, that there
are nowhere so many pirates as in the Chinese sea, especially in the
vicinity of Canton; yet no measures are taken to punish or extirpate
them, simply because the mandarins do not think it beneath their
dignity to secretly share in the profits.
For example, though the opium trade is forbidden, so much of this
drug is smuggled in every year, that it is said to exceed in value
that of all the tea exported in the same period. {102a} The
merchants enter into a private understanding with the officers and
mandarins, agreeing to give them a certain sum for every pikul, and
it is no rare occurrence for a mandarin to land whole cargoes under
the protection of his own flag.
In like manner there is said to be on one of the islands near Hong-
Kong a very extensive manufactory of false money, which is allowed
to be carried on without any interruption, as it pays a tribute to
the public functionaries and mandarins. A short time ago, a number
of pirate vessels that had ventured too near Canton, were shot into
and sunk, the crews lost, and their leader taken. The owners of the
vessels petitioned the government to set the prisoners free, and
threatened, in case of a refusal, to make extensive disclosures.
Every one was convinced that a sum of money accompanied this
threatening letter, for shortly after it was reported that the
prisoner had escaped.
I myself was witness of a circumstance in Canton, which caused me
great uneasiness, and was a pretty good proof of the helplessness or
apathy of the Chinese government.
On the 8th of August, Mr. Agassiz set out with a friend, intending
to return the same evening. I was left at home alone with the
Chinese servants. Mr. Agassiz did not return at the appointed time.
At last, about 1 o'clock the next morning, I suddenly heard voices
in loud conversation, and a violent knocking at the street door. I
at first supposed it to be Mr. Agassiz, and felt much surprise at
the late hour of his arrival, but I soon perceived that the
disturbance was not in our house, but in that on the opposite side
of the way. It is easy to fall into an error of this description,
as the houses are situated quite close to each other, and windows
are left open day and night. I heard voices exclaim, "Get up, -
dress!" and then, "It is horrible - shocking - good heavens? - where
did it happen?" - I sprang quickly out of bed and huddled on my gown,
thinking either that a fire had broken out in some house or other,
or that the people had risen in insurrection. {102b}
Seeing a gentleman at one of the windows, I called and inquired of
him what was the matter. He told me hurriedly that intelligence had
just arrived that two of his friends who were proceeding to Hong-
Kong (Whampoa lay on the road) had been attacked by pirates, and
that one was killed and the other wounded. He then immediately
retired, so that I was unable to learn the name of the unfortunate
victim, and was left all night a prey to the greatest anxiety lest
it should be Mr. Agassiz.
Fortunately, this at least was not the case, as Mr. Agassiz returned
at 5 o'clock in the morning. I then learned that this misfortune
had happened to Monsieur Vauchee, a Swiss gentleman, who had passed
many an evening in our house. On the very day of his departure, I
met him at a neighbour's, where we had all been in the highest
spirits, singing songs and quartettes. At 9 o'clock he went on
board the boat, set off at 10, and a quarter of an hour afterwards,
in the midst of thousands of schampans and other craft, met his
tragical end.
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