11th July. About 4 o'clock we were again upon the road, and rode
six hours, when we came to the village of Selik. We passed through
several villages, which, however, had a very miserable appearance.
The huts were built of reeds and straw; the slightest gust of wind
would have been sufficient to have blown them over. The dress of
the people approaches in character to the Oriental; all were very
scantily, dirtily, and raggedly clothed.
Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-tree and another
large tree. In this country trees are rare. The mountains
surrounding us were naked and barren, and in the valleys there grew
at most some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and
chrysanthemums.
The noble pilgrim took upon himself to point out my place under the
large tree, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him no
reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. Ali, who was
far better than he looked, brought me a jug of buttermilk, and
altogether today passed off tolerably pleasantly.
Several women from the village visited me and begged for money, but
I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be
attacked by all if I gave to one. I once gave a child a little
ring, and not only the other children, but their mothers and
grandmothers, crowded round me.
