A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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The Following Is A Tolerably Correct Account Of The Mode Of Life
Pursued By The Europeans Settled Here.
As soon as they are up, and
have drunk a cup of tea in their bed-room, they take a cold bath.
A
little after 9 o'clock, they breakfast upon fried fish or cutlets,
cold roast meat, boiled eggs, tea, and bread and butter. Every one
then proceeds to his business until dinner-time, which is generally
4 o'clock. The dinner is composed of turtle-soup, curry, roast
meat, hashes, and pastry. All the dishes, with the exception of the
curry, are prepared after the English fashion, although the cooks
are Chinese. For dessert there is cheese, with fruit; such as pine-
apples, long-yen, mangoes, and lytchi. The Chinese affirm that the
latter is the finest fruit in the whole world. It is about the size
of a nut, with a brown verrucous outside; the edible part is white
and tender, and the kernel black. Long-yen is somewhat smaller, but
is also white and tender, though the taste is rather watery.
Neither of these fruits struck me as very good. I do not think the
pine-apples are so sweet, or possessed of that aromatic fragrance
which distinguishes those raised in our European greenhouses,
although they are much larger.
Portuguese wines and English beer are the usual drinks - ice, broken
into small pieces, and covered up with a cloth, is offered with
each. The ice is rather a costly article, as it has to be brought
from North America. In the evening, tea is served up.
During meal-times, a large punkah is employed to diffuse an
agreeable degree of coolness through the apartment. The punkah is a
large frame, from eight to ten feet long, and three feet high,
covered with white Indian cloth, and fastened to the ceiling. A
rope communicates, through the wall, like a bell-pull, with the next
room, or the ground floor, where a servant is stationed to keep it
constantly in motion, and thus maintain a pleasing draught.
As may be seen from what I have said, the living here is very dear
for Europeans. The expense of keeping a house may be reckoned at
30,000 francs (6,000 dollars - 1,200 pounds) at the lowest; a very
considerable sum, when we reflect how little it procures, neither
including a carriage nor horses. There is nothing in the way of
amusement, or places of public recreation; the only pleasure many
gentlemen indulge in, is keeping a boat, for which they pay 28s. a-
month, or they walk in the evenings in a small garden, which the
European inhabitants have laid out at their own cost. This garden
faces the factory, surrounded on three sides by a wall, and, on the
fourth, washed by the Pearl stream.
The living of the Chinese population, on the contrary, costs very
little; 60 cash, 1,200 of which make a dollar (4s.), may be reckoned
a very liberal daily allowance for each man. As a natural
consequence, wages are extremely low; a boat, for instance, may be
hired for half a dollar (2s.) a-day, and on this income, a whole
family of from six to eight persons will often exist. It is true,
the Chinese are not too particular in their food; they eat dogs,
cats, mice, and rats, the intestines of birds, and the blood of
every animal, and I was even assured that caterpillars and worms
formed part of their diet. Their principal dish, however, is rice,
which is not only employed by them in the composition of their
various dishes, but supplies the place of bread. It is exceedingly
cheap; the pekul, which is equal to 124 lbs. English avoirdupois,
costing from one dollar and three-quarters to two dollars and a
half.
The costume of both sexes, among the lower orders, consists of broad
trousers and long upper garments, and is remarkable for its
excessive filth. The Chinaman is an enemy of baths and washing; he
wears no shirt, and does not discard his trousers until they
actually fall off his body. The men's upper garments reach a little
below the knee, and the women's somewhat lower. They are made of
nankeen, or dark blue, brown, or black silk. During the cold
season, both men and women wear one summer-garment over the other,
and keep the whole together with a girdle; during the great heat,
however, they allow their garments to flutter unconstrained about
their body.
All the men have their heads shaved, with the exception of a small
patch at the back, the hair on which is carefully cultivated and
plaited into a cue. The thicker and longer this cue is, the prouder
is its owner; false hair and black ribbon are consequently worked up
in it, so that it often reaches down to the ankles. During work, it
is twisted round the neck, but, on the owner's entering a room, it
is let down again, as it would be against all the laws of etiquette
and politeness for a person to make his appearance with his cue
twisted up. The women wear all their hair, which they comb entirely
back off their forehead, and fasten it in most artistic plaits to
the head; they spend a great deal of time in the process, but when
their hair is once dressed, it does not require to be touched for a
whole week. Both men and women sometimes go about with no covering
at all on their head; sometimes they wear hats made of thin bamboo,
and very frequently three feet in diameter; these keep off both sun
and rain, and are exceedingly durable.
On their feet they wear sewed stockings and shoes, formed of black
silk, or some material like worsted; the soles, which are more than
an inch thick, are made up of layers of strong pasteboard or felt
pasted together. The poor people go barefooted.
The houses of the lower classes are miserable hovels, built of wood
or brick.
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