They
were obliged to travel here over hills and rocks quicker than across
the most convenient plains. We passed through in safety before
darkness came on, and then proceeded more leisurely on our journey.
21st June. Towards 1 in the morning, we came up with the town
Karatappa, of which, however, we saw only the walls. A mile beyond
this we halted in some stubble fields. The extensive deserts and
plains end here, and we entered upon a more cultivated and hilly
country.
On the 22nd of June, we halted in the neighbourhood of the town
Kuferi.
Nothing favourable can be said of any of the Turkish towns, as they
so much resemble each other in wretchedness, that it is a pleasure
not to be compelled to enter them. The streets are dirty, the
houses built of mud or unburnt bricks, the places of worship
unimportant, miserable stalls and coarse goods constitute the
bazaars, and the people, dirty and disgusting, are of a rather brown
complexion. The women increase their natural ugliness, by dyeing
their hair and nails reddish brown with henna, and by tattooing
their hands and arms. Even at twenty-five years old, they appear
quite faded.
On the 23rd of June, we halted not far from the town of Dus, and
took up our resting-place for the day.
