Which arise simultaneously on all sides, and lash the waters
up mountains high. We took every precaution in anticipation of our
dangerous enemy, but for once they were not needed: either the
hurricane did not break out at all, or else it broke out at a great
distance from us; for we were only visited by a trifling storm of no
long duration.
On the 8th of July we again reached the vicinity of Macao, and
entered the Straits of Lema. Our course now lay between bays and
reefs, diversified by groups of the most beautiful islands, offering
a series of most magnificent and varied views.
On the 9th of July we anchored in Macao Roads. The town, which
belongs to the Portuguese, and has a population of 20,000
inhabitants, is beautifully situated on the sea-side, and surrounded
by pleasing hills and mountains. The most remarkable objects are
the palace of the Portuguese governor, the Catholic monastery of
Guia, the fortifications, and a few fine houses which lie scattered
about the hills in picturesque disorder.
Besides a few European ships, there were anchored in the roads
several large Chinese junks, while a great number of small boats,
manned by Chinese, were rocking to and fro around us.
CHAPTER VIII. CHINA.
MACAO - HONG-KONG - VICTORIA - VOYAGE ON BOARD A CHINESE JUNK - THE SI-
KIANG, CALLED ALSO THE TIGRIS - WHAMPOA - CANTON, OR KUANGTSCHEU-FU -
MODE OF LIFE PURSUED BY EUROPEANS - THE CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS -
CRIMINALS AND PIRATES - MURDER OF VAUCHEE - PROMENADES AND EXCURSIONS.
A year before my arrival in China, it would have seemed hardly
credible to me that I should ever succeed in taking my place among
the small number of Europeans who are acquainted with that
remarkable country, not from books alone, but from actual
observation; I never believed that I should really behold the
Chinese, with their shaven heads, long tails, and small, ugly,
narrow eyes, the exact counterparts of the representations of them
which we have in Europe.
We had hardly anchored, before a number of Chinese clambered up on
deck, while others remained in their boats, offering for sale a
variety of beautifully made articles, with fruit and cakes, laid out
in great order, so as to form in a few seconds a regular market
round the vessel. Some of them began praising their wares in broken
English; but on the whole, they did not drive a very flourishing
business, as the crew merely bought a few cigars, and a little
fruit.
Captain Jurianse hired a boat, and we immediately went on shore,
where each person on landing had to pay half a Spanish dollar (2s.)
to the mandarin: I subsequently heard that this imposition was
shortly afterwards abolished. We proceeded to the house of one of
the Portuguese merchants established there, passing through a large
portion of the town on our way thither. Europeans, both men and
women, can circulate freely, without being exposed to a shower of
stones, as is frequently the case in other Chinese towns. The
streets, which are exclusively inhabited by Chinese, presented a
very bustling aspect. The men were in many cases seated out of
doors in groups, playing at dominoes, while locksmiths, carpenters,
shoemakers, and many others were either working, talking, playing,
or dining in the numerous booths. I observed but few women, and
these were of the lower classes. Nothing surprised and amused me
more than the manner in which the Chinese eat; they have two little
sticks, with which they very skilfully convey their victuals into
their mouths. This process, however, cannot be so successfully
practised with rice, because it does not hold together; they
therefore hold the plate containing it close to their mouths, and
push it in by the aid of the sticks, generally letting a portion of
it fall back again, in no very cleanly fashion, into the plate. For
liquids they use round spoons of porcelain.
The style in which the houses are built, did not strike me as very
remarkable; the front generally looks out upon the courtyard or
garden.
Among other objects which I visited was the grotto, in which the
celebrated Portuguese poet, Camoens, is said to have composed the
Lusiade. He had been banished, A.D. 1556, to Macao, on account of a
satirical poem he had written, Disperates no India, and remained in
banishment several years before receiving a pardon. The grotto is
charmingly situated upon an eminence not far from the town.
As there was no business to be done, the captain resolved to put to
sea again the next morning, and offered in the most friendly manner
to take me as his guest to Hong-Kong, as I had only agreed for a
passage as far as Macao. I accepted his invitation with the greater
pleasure, as I had not a single letter to any one in Macao; besides
which, it is very seldom that there is an opportunity of proceeding
to Hong-Kong.
On account of the shallowness of the water, our ship was hove to at
rather a long distance from the shore, where it was exposed to an
attack from the pirates, who are here very daring and numerous. In
consequence of this, every precaution was taken, and the watch
doubled for the night.
As late as the year 1842 these pirates attacked a brig that was
lying at anchor in the Macao Roads, murdering the crew and
plundering the vessel. The captain had remained on shore, and the
sailors had carelessly given themselves up to sleep, leaving only
one man to keep watch. In the middle of the night a schampan - which
is the name given to a vessel smaller than a junk - came alongside
the brig. One of the rowers then came on board, pretending he had a
letter from the captain; and as the sailor went near the lantern to
read the letter, he received from the pirate a blow upon his head
which laid him senseless on the deck; the rest of those in the boat,
who had hitherto remained concealed, now scaled the side of the
brig, and quickly overpowered the slumbering crew.
