This excursion was my last in this beautiful isle, as I was obliged
to embark on the next day, the 17th of May. The cargo was cleared,
and the ballast taken on board. All articles to which the French
troops are accustomed, such as flour, salted meat, potatoes, pulse,
wine, and a variety of others, have to be imported. {86}
I felt extremely reluctant to leave; and the only thing that tended
at all to cheer my spirits, was the thought of my speedy arrival in
China, that most wonderful of all known countries.
We left the port of Papeiti on the morning of the 17th of May, with
a most favourable wind, soon passed in safety all the dangerous
coral-reefs which surround the island, and in seven hours' time had
lost sight of it altogether. Towards evening, we beheld the
mountain ranges of the island of Huaheme, which we passed during the
night.
The commencement of our voyage was remarkably pleasant. Besides the
favourable breeze, which still continued, we enjoyed the company of
a fine Belgian brig, the Rubens, which had put to sea at the same
time as ourselves. It was seldom that we approached near enough for
the persons on board to converse with each other; but whoever is at
all acquainted with the endless uniformity of long voyages, will
easily understand our satisfaction at knowing we were even in the
neighbourhood of human beings.
We pursued the same track as far as the Philippine Islands, but on
the morning of the third day our companion had disappeared, leaving
us in ignorance whether she had out-sailed us or we her. We were
once more alone on the endless waste of waters.
On the 23rd of May, we approached very near to the low island of
Penchyn. A dozen or two of the natives were desirous of honouring
us with a visit, and pulled stoutly in six canoes towards our ship,
but we sailed so fast that they were soon left a long way behind.
Several of the sailors affirmed, that these were specimens of real
savages, and that we might reckon ourselves fortunate in having
escaped their visit. The captain, too, appeared to share this
opinion, and I was the only person who regretted not having formed a
more intimate acquaintance with them.
28th May. For some days we had been fortunate enough to be visited,
from time to time, with violent showers; a most remarkable thing for
the time of year in this climate, where the rainy season commences
in January and lasts for three months, the sky for the remaining
nine being generally cloudless. This present exception was the more
welcome from our being just on the Line, where we should otherwise
have suffered much from the heat. The thermometer stood at only 81
degrees in the shade, and 97 degrees in the sun.
Today at noon we crossed the Line, and were once more in the
northern hemisphere. A Tahitian sucking-pig was killed and consumed
in honour of our successful passage, and our native hemisphere
toasted in real hock.
On the 4th of June, under 8 degrees North latitude, we beheld again,
for the first time, the lovely polar star.
On the 17th of June, we passed so near to Saypan, one of the largest
of the Ladrone Islands, that we could make out the mountains very
distinctly. The Ladrone and Marianne Islands are situated between
the 13 and 21 degrees North latitude, and the 145 and 146 degrees
East longitude.
On the 1st of July we again saw land: this time it was the coast of
Lucovia, or Luzon, the largest of the Philippines, and lying between
the 18 and 19 degrees North latitude, and the 125 and 119 degrees
East longitude. The port of Manilla is situated on the southern
coast of the island.
In the course of the day we passed the island of Babuan, and several
detached rocks, rising, colossus like, from the sea. Four of them
were pretty close together, and formed a picturesque group. Some
time afterwards we saw two more.
In the night of the 1st-2nd of July, we reached the western point of
Luzon, and entered on the dangerous Chinese Sea. I was heartily
glad at last to bid adieu to the Pacific Ocean, for a voyage on it
is one of the most monotonous things that can be imagined. The
appearance of another ship is a rare occurrence; and the water is so
calm that it resembles a stream. Very frequently I used to start up
from my desk, thinking that I was in some diminutive room ashore;
and my mistake was the more natural, as we had three horses, a dog,
several pigs, hens, geese, and a canary bird on board, all
respectively neighing, barking, grunting, cackling, and singing, as
if they were in a farm-yard.
6th July. For the first few days after entering the Chinese sea, we
sailed pretty well in the same fashion we had done in the Pacific -
proceeding slowly and quietly on our way. Today we beheld the coast
of China for the first time, and towards evening we were not more
than thirty-three miles from Macao. I was rather impatient for the
following morning. I longed to find my darling hope realized, of
putting my foot upon Chinese ground. I pictured the mandarins with
their high caps, and the ladies with their tiny feet, when in the
middle of the night the wind shifted, and on the 7th of July we had
been carried back 115 miles. In addition to this, the glass fell so
low, that we dreaded a Tai-foon, which is a very dangerous kind of
storm, or rather hurricane, that is very frequent in the Chinese sea
during the months of July, August, and September.
