But I pitied the people too much,
and declared that I did not find travelling on camels unpleasant;
that in fact, on account of the open view, that mode was to be
preferred to palanquins. However, on account of my little
portmanteau, I took a third camel. I left the sepoys behind here.
This evening we went eight miles towards the little town Patan.
17th February. It was not till this morning that I saw Patan was
situated on a romantic chain of hills, and possesses several
remarkably handsome temples, in the open halls belonging to which
are placed sculptured stone figures, the size of life. The
arabesques and figures on the pillars were sharply executed in
relief. In the valleys which we passed through, there was a large
quantity of basaltic rock and most beautifully crystallized quartz.
Towards evening, we reached Batschbachar, a miserable little town.
18th February. Rumtscha is somewhat larger and better. I was
obliged to put up my bed in the middle of the bazaar under an open
verandah. Upon this road there were no caravansaries. Half of the
inhabitants of the town gathered round me, and watched all my
motions and doings with the greatest attention. I afforded them an
opportunity of studying the appearance of an angry European female,
as I was very much displeased with my people, and, in spite of my
slight knowledge of the language, scolded them heartily.