The villages which lie on the road are small, and appear very
miserable and poor. They are surrounded by high mud walls, which
give them the appearance of a fortification.
After we had travelled three nights and two days and a half, we
reached Agra on the 13th of January - the former residence of the
Great Mogul of India.
The suburbs of Agra resemble, in poverty, the miserable villages
before mentioned. They are composed of high walls of earth, within
which are small dilapidated huts and barracks. A change was at once
apparent when we had passed through a stately gateway. We then
suddenly found ourselves in a large open square, surrounded by
walls, from which four lofty gates led to the town, the fortress,
and the suburbs. Agra, like most Indian towns, has no inn. A
German missionary received me kindly; and, in addition to his
hospitality, was obliging enough to show me personally whatever
there was of interest in the town and neighbourhood.
Our first visit was to the beautiful mausoleum of the Sultan Akbar,
at Secundra, four miles from Agra.
The porch which leads into the garden is a masterpiece. I stood
before it for a long time amazed. The enormous building is raised
upon a stone terrace, which is approached by broad steps; the gate
is lofty, and is surmounted by an imposing dome.