Handsome, but still affords some
amusement, as great numbers of people assemble here on Sundays, and
festivals, and a very good band of music plays here in summer under
a tent; in winter the performances take place in a plain room.
The botanic garden, three wersti from the town, has few exotic
plants, and is much neglected. The autumn changes, which I again
saw here for the first time for some years, made a truly sad
impression upon me. I could almost have envied the people who live
in hot climates, although the heat is very troublesome.
The German language is understood by almost all but the lowest
orders in Odessa.
On leaving the Russian dominions I had as much trouble with the
passport regulations as on entering. The passport which was
obtained on entering must be changed for another for which two
silver roubles are paid. Besides this, the traveller's name has to
be three times printed in the newspaper, so that if he has debts,
his creditors may know of his departure. With these delays it takes
at least eight days, frequently, however, two or three weeks to get
away; it is not, however, necessary to wait for these forms, if the
traveller provides security.
The Austrian Consul, Herr Gutenthal, answered for me, and I was thus
able to bid adieu to Russia on the 2nd of October. That I did this
with a light heart it is not necessary for me to assure my readers.
CHAPTER XXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS.
CONSTANTINOPLE - CHANGES - TWO FIRES - VOYAGE TO GREECE - QUARANTINE AT
AEGINA - A DAY IN ATHENS - CALAMACHI - THE ISTHMUS - PATRAS - CORFU.
Little can be said of the passage from Odessa to Constantinople; we
continued out at sea and did not land anywhere. The distance is 420
miles. The ship belonged to the Russian government, it was named
Odessa, was of 260 horse power, and was handsome, clean, and neat.
In order that my parting with my dear friends, the Russians, might
not be too much regretted, one of them was so good at the end of the
passage as to behave in a manner that was far from polite. During
the last night which was very mild and warm, I went out of the close
cabin on to the deck, and placed myself not far from the compass-
box, where I soon began to sleep, wrapt in my mantle. One of the
sailors came, and giving me a kick with his foot, told me to leave
the place. I thanked him quietly for the delicate way in which he
expressed himself, and requesting him to leave me at peace,
continued to sleep.
Among the passengers were six English sailors, who had taken a new
ship to Odessa, and were returning home.
