This consists, both
for men and women, of long wide blue cloth coats; the men wear low
felt hats, with broad brims, and have their hair cut even all round;
the women bind small silk kerchiefs round their heads.
Before finishing my account of Kertsch, I must mention that there
are naphtha springs in the neighbourhood; but I did not visit them,
as they were described to me as precisely similar to those at
Tiflis.
The next part of my journey was to Odessa. I could go either by sea
or land. The latter was said to present many objects of beauty and
interest; but I preferred the former, as I had in the first place no
great admiration of the Russian post; and, secondly, I was heartily
anxious to turn my back upon the Russian frontiers.
On the 27th of September, at 8 in the morning, I went on board the
Russian steamer Dargo, of 100 horse power. The distance from Odessa
to Constantinople amounts to 420 miles. The vessel was handsome and
very clean, and the fare very moderate. I paid for the second cabin
thirteen silver roubles, or twenty florins fifty kreutzers (2 pounds
1s. 4d.) The only thing which did not please me in the Russian
steamer, was the too great attention of the steward who, as I was
told, pays for his office. All the travellers are compelled to take
their meals with him, the poor deck passengers not excepted, who
have often to pay him their last kopecs.
About afternoon we came to Feodosia (Caffa), which was formerly the
largest and most important town in the Crimea, and was called the
second Constantinople. It was at the height of its prosperity about
the end of the fifteenth century, under the dominion of Genueser.
Its population at that time is said to have been upwards of 200,000.
It has now declined to a minor town, with 5,000 inhabitants.
Half-ruined fortification walls and towers of the time of Genueser
remain, as well as a fine mosque, which has been turned into a
Christian church by the Russians.
The town lies upon a large bay of the Black Sea, on the declivity of
barren hills. Pretty gardens between the houses form the only
vegetation to be seen.
28th September. We stopped this morning at Jalta, a very small
village, containing 500 inhabitants, and a handsome church founded
by the Prince Woronzoff. It is built in pure Gothic style, and
stands upon a hill outside of the village. The country is again
delightful here, and beautiful hills and mountains, partly covered
with fine woods, partly rising in steep precipices, extend close to
the sea-shore.
The steamer stayed twenty-four hours at Jalta. I took advantage of
the time to make an excursion to Alupka, one of the estates of
Prince Woronzoff, famous for a castle which is considered one of the
curiosities of the Crimea.
