Partly on a broad hill.
Here I saw, for the first time, Cossacks in full uniform; all those
I had previously seen were very badly dressed, and had no military
appearance; they wore loose linen trousers, and long ugly coats,
reaching down to their heels. These, however, wore close-fitting
spencers with breast-pockets, each of which was divided for eight
cartridges, wide trousers, which sat in folds upon the upper part of
the body, and dark blue cloth caps, trimmed with fur. They rowed a
staff officer to the ship.
18th September. We remained the whole day in Sahun. The coal-
boats, from some inconceivable negligence, had not arrived; the
coals were taken on board after we had been some time at anchor, and
our supply was not completed until 6 o'clock in the evening, when we
again started.
19th September. During the night there was much storm and rain. I
begged permission to seat myself on the cabin steps, which I
received; but, after a few minutes, an order came from the
commandant to take me under cover. I was much surprised and pleased
at this politeness, but I was soon undeceived when I was led into
the large sailors' cabin. The people smelt horribly of brandy, and
some of them had evidently taken too much. I hastened back on to
the deck, where, in spite of the raging of the elements, I felt more
comfortable than among these well-bred Christians.
In the course of the day we stopped at Bambur, Pizunta, Gagri,
Adlar, and other places. Near Bambur I observed majestic groups of
rocks.
20th September. The Caucasian mountains were now out of sight, and
the thick woods were also succeeded by wide open spaces. We were
still troubled with wind, storm, and rain.
The engineer of the ship, an Englishman, Mr. Platt, had accidentally
heard of my journey (perhaps from my passport, which I had to give
up on entering the ship); he introduced himself to me today, and
offered me the use of his cabin during the day-time; he also spoke
to one of the officers for me, and succeeded in obtaining a cabin
for me, which, although it joined the sailors' cabin, was separated
from it by a door. I was very thankful to both the gentlemen for
their kindness, which was the greater, as the preference was given
to me, a stranger, over the Russian officers, of whom at least half
a dozen were on deck.
We remained a long time at Sissasse. This is an important station;
there is a fine fortress upon a hill - round it stand pretty wooden
houses.
21st September. This was a terrible night! One of the sailors, who
was healthy and well the day before, and had taken his supper with a
good appetite, was suddenly attacked with cholera.
