The worthy Germans, who think everything excellent that does not
emanate from themselves, copy this custom most conscientiously.
CHAPTER XII. BENARES.
DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA - ENTRANCE INTO THE GANGES - RAJMAHAL - GUR -
JUNGHERA - MONGHYR - PATNA - DEINAPOOR - GESIPOOR - BENARES - RELIGION OF
THE HINDOOS - DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN - PALACES AND TEMPLES - THE HOLY
PLACES - THE HOLY APES - THE RUINS OF SARANTH - AN INDIGO PLANTATION - A
VISIT TO THE RAJAH OF BENARES - MARTYRS AND FAKIRS - THE INDIAN
PEASANT - THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT.
On the 10th of December, after a stay of more than five weeks, I
left Calcutta for Benares. The journey may be performed either by
land, or else by water, on the Ganges. By land, the distance is 470
miles; by water, 800 miles during the rainy season, and 465 miles
more during the dry months, as the boats are compelled to take very
circuitous routes to pass from the Hoogly, through the Sonderbunds,
into the Ganges.
The land journey is performed in post-palanquins, carried by men,
who, like horses, are changed every four or six miles. The
traveller proceeds by night as well as day, and at each station
finds people ready to receive him, as a circular from the post-
office is always sent a day or two before, to prepare them for his
arrival.