About 6 in the evening we again proceeded on our journey, and for
the first three hours went continually up-hill. The ground was
waste and covered with boulders, which were full of shallow holes,
and resembled old lava.
Towards 11 at night we entered an extensive and beautiful valley,
upon which the moon threw a brilliant light. We purposed halting
here, and not continuing our journey further during the night, as
our caravan was small, and Kurdistan bears a very bad name. The
road led over fields of stubble near to stacks of corn. Suddenly
half a dozen powerful fellows sprung out from behind, armed with
stout cudgels, and seizing our horses' reins, raised their sticks,
and shouted at us terribly. I felt certain that we had fallen into
the hands of a band of robbers, and was glad to think that I had
left my treasures which I had collected at Babylon and Nineveh,
together with my papers, at Mosul; my other effects might have been
easily replaced. During the time this was passing in my mind, one
of our party had sprung from his horse and seized one of the men by
the breast, when he held a loaded pistol before his face and
threatened to shoot him. This had an immediate effect; the
waylayers relinquished their hold, and soon entered into a peaceful
conversation with us; and at last, indeed, showed us a good place to
encamp, for which, however, they requested a small bachshish, which
was given to them by a general collection. From me, as belonging to
the female sex, they required nothing. We passed the night here,
though not without keeping guard.
11th July. About 4 o'clock we were again upon the road, and rode
six hours, when we came to the village of Selik. We passed through
several villages, which, however, had a very miserable appearance.
The huts were built of reeds and straw; the slightest gust of wind
would have been sufficient to have blown them over. The dress of
the people approaches in character to the Oriental; all were very
scantily, dirtily, and raggedly clothed.
Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-tree and another
large tree. In this country trees are rare. The mountains
surrounding us were naked and barren, and in the valleys there grew
at most some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and
chrysanthemums.
The noble pilgrim took upon himself to point out my place under the
large tree, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him no
reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. Ali, who was
far better than he looked, brought me a jug of buttermilk, and
altogether today passed off tolerably pleasantly.
Several women from the village visited me and begged for money, but
I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be
attacked by all if I gave to one.
