At this time it was
conquered by the Chaldeans. It was afterwards subject in succession
to the Persians, Osmans, Tartars, and others, until the year A.D.
1637, since which time it has remained under the Osman government.
The temple of Belus or Baal was destroyed by Xerxes, and Alexander
the Great would have restored it; but as it would have required
10,000 men for two months (others say two years) merely to remove
the rubbish, he did not attempt it.
One of the palaces is described as having been the residence of the
king, the other a castle. Unfortunately they are so fallen to
decay, that they afford no means of forming a satisfactory opinion
even to antiquarians. It is supposed, however, that the ruins
called Mujellibe are the remains of the castle. Another large heap
of ruins is situated about a mile distant, called El Kasir.
According to some, the temple of Baal stood here, according to
others the royal palace. Massive fragments of walls and columns are
still to be seen, and in a hollow a lion in dark grey granite, of
such a size that at some distance I took it for an elephant. It is
very much damaged, and, to judge from what remains, does not appear
to have been the work of a great artist.
The mortar is of extraordinary hardness; it is easier to break the
bricks themselves, than to separate them from it. The bricks of all
the ruins are partly yellow and partly red, a foot long, nearly as
broad, and half an inch thick.
In the ruins El Kasir stands a solitary tree, which belongs to a
species of firs which is quite unknown in this district. The Arabs
call it Athale, and consider it sacred. There are said to be
several of the same kind near Buschir - they are there called Goz or
Guz.
Many writers see something very extraordinary in this tree; indeed
they go so far as to consider it as a relic of the hanging gardens,
and affirm that it gives out sad melancholy tones when the wind
plays through its branches, etc. Everything, indeed, is possible
with God; but that this half-stunted tree which is scarcely eighteen
feet high, and whose wretched stem is at most only nine inches in
diameter, is full 3,000 years old, appears to me rather too
improbable!
The country round Babylon is said to have been formerly so
flourishing and fruitful, that it was called the Paradise of
Chaldea. This productiveness ceased with the existence of the
buildings.
As I had seen everything completely, I rode on as far as Hilla, on
the other side of the Euphrates. A most miserable bridge of forty-
six boats is here thrown across the river, which is four hundred and
thirty feet broad.
