They were used to a different plan, and would not
depart from it.
Travelling on camels is always unpleasant and troublesome. The
jolting motion of the animal produces in many people the same ill
effects as the rocking of a ship on the sea; but in India it is
almost unbearable, on account of the inconvenience of the
arrangements. Here each animal has a driver, who sits in front and
takes the best place; the traveller has only a little space left for
him on the hinder part of the animal.
Dr. Rolland advised me at once to put up with the inconvenience as
well as I could. He told me that I should fall in with Captain
Burdon in the next day or two, and it would be easy to obtain a more
convenient conveyance from him. I followed his advice, allowed my
luggage to be carried, and patiently mounted my camel.
We passed through extensive plains, which were most remarkable for
some considerable flax plantations, and came to a beautiful lake,
near to which lay a very pretty palace. Towards evening, we reached
the little village of Moasa, where we stayed for the night.
In those countries which are governed by native princes, there are
neither roads nor arrangements for travelling; although in every
village and town there are people appointed whose business it is to
direct travellers on their way and carry their luggage, for which
they are paid a small fee. Those travellers who have a guard from
the king or aumil (governor), or a cheprasse with them, do not pay
anything for this attendance; others give them a trifle for their
services, according as the distance is greater or less.
When I reached Moasa, every one hastened to offer me their services -
for I travelled with the king's people, and in this part of the
country a European woman is a rarity. They brought me wood, milk,
and eggs. My table was always rather frugally furnished: at the
best I had rice boiled in milk or some eggs, but generally only
rice, with water and salt. A leathern vessel for water, a little
saucepan for boiling in, a handful of salt, and some rice and bread,
were all that I took with me.
15th February. Late in the evening I reached Nurankura, a small
place surrounded by low mountains. I found here some tents
belonging to Captain Burdon, a maid, and a servant. Terribly
fatigued, I entered one of the tents directly, in order to rest
myself. Scarcely had I taken possession of the divan, than the maid
came into the tent, and, without any observation, commenced kneading
me about with her hands. I would have stopped her, but she
explained to me that when a person was fatigued it was very
refreshing.
