The country beyond this woody district had a very
remarkable appearance; the ground was in many places torn and
fissured, as if in consequence of an earthquake.
In the caravansary at Baratpoor there were a great number of
natives, soldiers, and particularly some very rough-looking men, of
whom I felt inclined to be afraid: I was no longer in the English
territories, and alone among all these people. However, they
behaved themselves with the greatest civility, and greeted me in the
evening and morning with a right hearty salaam. I think that a
similar set of men in our own country would scarcely have shown me
the same respect.
4th February. On the other side of the town, I saw two fine
monuments before the door, round temples with lofty cupolas, and
carved stone lattice work in the window openings. The fields and
meadows were richly strewed with Indian fig-trees, a thing which I
have scarcely met with anywhere else, except in Syria and Sicily; to
the right of the road was a low rocky peak, whose highest point was
crowned by a fortress. The dwelling-houses of the commanders,
instead of being sheltered by the walls, rose high above them, and
were tastily surrounded by verandahs; on the terrace of the
principal building was a handsome pavilion, supported upon pillars.
The outer walls of the fortress extended down into the valley below.
We had proceeded about fourteen miles, when we came upon some
monuments which had a very unique appearance. On a small spot,
shaded by beautiful trees, was a round wall, formed of a number of
flagstones of seven feet high and four feet wide; in the middle
stood three monuments of a circular form, built of large square
stones. The diameter of their tower part was about twelve feet,
their height about six. They had no entrance.
I also saw a new species of bird today. It was very similar in size
and form to the flamingo, with beautiful pinion feathers; its
plumage was tinged with a rich whitish grey shade, the head was
covered with deep red feathers. We rested this night at the
somewhat large town of Hindon. The only object which attracted my
notice here was a palace with such small windows, that they seemed
more fitted for dolls than for men.
6th February. As I was about to leave the caravansary this morning,
three armed men placed themselves before my waggon, and in spite of
the exclamations of my people, prevented our starting. At last, I
succeeded in understanding that the dispute was about a few pence,
for having kept watch before the door of my sleeping-room during the
night, which my people would not pay. The caravansary did not
appear to the cheprasse very safe, and he had requested a guard in
the evening from the serdar (magistrate). The people might have
slept quite soundly in some corner of the court-yard, and, perhaps,
have dreamt of watching, for although I had looked out several times
during the night, there was not one of them to be seen; however,
what can one expect for a few pence?
