With the tschandrie (waggoner) in Hindostanee to
the effect that I was to pay him the half of the fare, fifteen
rupees (1 pounds 10s.), immediately, and the other half when we
arrived at Kottah, to which place he was to bring me in fourteen
days; for every day over that time I had the right to deduct three
rupees (6s.) Dr. Sprenger also sent one of his most trusty
cheprasses {193} to accompany me, and his good wife furnished me
with an excellent warm wrapper, and every kind of provision, so that
my waggon would hardly hold all that I had.
With a sorrowful heart I parted from my good country people. God
grant that I may see them yet again during my life!
On the morning of 30th of January, 1848, I left Delhi. The first
day, we made very little progress, only eighteen miles, which
brought us to Faridabad; the heavy awkward animals required to be
first used to the draught. The first twelve miles of the journey
afforded me some gratification, as along both sides of the road lay
innumerable ruins, which I had visited with my friends only a few
days previously.
This, as well as the following nights, were passed in caravansaries.
I had no tent - no palanquins, and on this road there were no
bungalows. Unfortunately, the caravansaries in the smaller villages
are not to be compared with those in the larger towns; the cells are
rudely constructed of clay, their length is scarcely seven feet, and
the small opening, only four feet high, is without a door; but, to
my astonishment, I found them always very cleanly swept, and I was
also furnished with a low wooden stool, covered with network, upon
which I threw my wrapper, and which served me for an excellent
couch. The cheprasse laid himself, like Napoleon's Mameluke, before
the entrance of my cell; but he slept much more soundly, for, even
on the first night, he did not hear the least of a very sharp
encounter which I had with an enormous dog that had been attracted
by my well-filled provision basket.
31st January. Towards noon, we passed through the little town of
Balamgalam, in which there is a small English military station, a
mosque, and a very recently-erected Hindoo temple. We passed the
night in the little town of Palwal.
In this neighbourhood, the peacocks are very tame. Every morning, I
saw dozens of these beautiful birds on the trees; they come into the
fields, and even into the towns, to fetch food from the good-natured
natives.
1st February. Our night's station on this day was the small town of
Cossi. We had already been overtaken during the last mile by a
number of natives, who were busily hurrying into the town, in and
outside of which a considerable cattle-market was being held.
