A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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If A Great Part Of Them
Were Not Already Covered With A Thin Layer Of Earth, These Ruins
Would Certainly Be The Most Extensive In The World.
New Delhi lies upon the Jumna; it contains, according to Bruckner, a
population of 500,000, {183} but I was informed that there was
really only 100,000, among which are 100 Europeans.
The streets are
broader and finer than any I had yet seen in any Indian town. The
principal street, Tchandni-Tschank, would do honour to an European
city: it is nearly three-quarters of a mile long, and about a
hundred feet broad; a narrow canal, scant of water and half filled
with rubbish, runs through its entire length. The houses in this
street are not remarkable either for magnitude or splendour; they
are at most one story high, and are furnished below with miserable
porches or arcades, under which worthless goods are exposed for
sale. I saw nothing of the costly shops, the numerous precious
stones glittering in the evening with the lamps and lights, of which
many travellers speak. The pretty houses and the rich shops must be
sought for in the bye streets near the bazaar. The manufactures
which I saw, consisted of gold and silver work, gold tissues and
shawls. The natives execute the gold and silver wares so tastefully
and artistically, that finer cannot be found even in Paris. The
tissues woven in gold, the gold and silk embroideries and Cashmere
shawls, are of the highest degree of perfection. The finest
Cashmere shawls cost here as much as 4,000 rupees (400 pounds). The
dexterity of the workmen appears still more surprising after seeing
the simple machines which they employ to produce their beautiful
wares.
It is extremely interesting to walk about the principal streets of
Delhi in the evening. There may be seen at once the modes of life
of both the rich and the poor Indians. There is no town in which
there are so many princes and nobles as in this. Besides the
pensioned emperor and his relations, whose number amounts to several
thousand, many other deposed and pensioned regents and ministers
reside here. Their presence gives great animation to the town; they
are fond of going out in public, frequently make greater or less
parties, and ride (always on elephants) either in the neighbouring
gardens, or in the evenings through the streets. In the day
excursions, the elephants are decorated in the most costly manner
with rugs and fine stuffs, gold lace, and fringe; the seats called
the howdahs are even covered with Cashmere shawls; richly fringed
canopies keep off the heat of the sun, or else servants hold
enormous umbrellas for this purpose. The princes and nobles sit in
these howdahs to the number of two or four, and are very gorgeously
attired in Oriental costumes. These processions present a most
beautiful appearance, and are even larger and more splendid than
those of the Rajah of Benares, which I have described.
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