The control is carried out by
means of a book, in which each traveller writes his name. If there
are no travellers, a person may remain as long as he chooses; when
the contrary happens, he cannot stay more than twenty-four hours.
The villages which lie on the road are small, and appear very
miserable and poor. They are surrounded by high mud walls, which
give them the appearance of a fortification.
After we had travelled three nights and two days and a half, we
reached Agra on the 13th of January - the former residence of the
Great Mogul of India.
The suburbs of Agra resemble, in poverty, the miserable villages
before mentioned. They are composed of high walls of earth, within
which are small dilapidated huts and barracks. A change was at once
apparent when we had passed through a stately gateway. We then
suddenly found ourselves in a large open square, surrounded by
walls, from which four lofty gates led to the town, the fortress,
and the suburbs. Agra, like most Indian towns, has no inn. A
German missionary received me kindly; and, in addition to his
hospitality, was obliging enough to show me personally whatever
there was of interest in the town and neighbourhood.
Our first visit was to the beautiful mausoleum of the Sultan Akbar,
at Secundra, four miles from Agra.
The porch which leads into the garden is a masterpiece. I stood
before it for a long time amazed. The enormous building is raised
upon a stone terrace, which is approached by broad steps; the gate
is lofty, and is surmounted by an imposing dome. At the four
corners are minarets of white marble three stories high;
unfortunately, their upper parts are already somewhat dilapidated.
On the front of the gate are the remains of a stone trellis-work.
The mausoleum stands in the centre of the garden; it is a square
building four stories in height, each becoming narrower at the top,
like a pyramid. The first sight of this monument is not very
attractive, for the beauty of the gateway eclipses it; however, it
improves on a more detailed examination.
The bottom story is surrounded by fine arcades; the rooms are plain,
the walls covered with a brilliant white cement, intended as a
substitute for marble. Several sarcophagi stand inside.
The second story consists of a large terrace, which covers the whole
extent of the lower one; in its centre is an open airy apartment
with a light arched roof, supported by columns. Several small
kiosks at the corners and sides of the terrace give to the whole a
somewhat bizarre though tasty appearance.
