A second Russian church stands in the new bazaar; it has a large
dome surrounded by four smaller ones, and has a very fine appearance
from the exterior; inside it is small and plain.
The Catholic church, not yet quite finished, vies in point of
architecture with the Russian cathedral.
The streets are all broad, handsome, and regular, it is almost
impossible to lose your way in this town. In every street there are
fine large houses, and this is the case even in the most remote
parts as well.
In the interior of the town lies the so-called "crown garden," which
is not, indeed, very large or handsome, but still affords some
amusement, as great numbers of people assemble here on Sundays, and
festivals, and a very good band of music plays here in summer under
a tent; in winter the performances take place in a plain room.
The botanic garden, three wersti from the town, has few exotic
plants, and is much neglected. The autumn changes, which I again
saw here for the first time for some years, made a truly sad
impression upon me. I could almost have envied the people who live
in hot climates, although the heat is very troublesome.
The German language is understood by almost all but the lowest
orders in Odessa.
On leaving the Russian dominions I had as much trouble with the
passport regulations as on entering. The passport which was
obtained on entering must be changed for another for which two
silver roubles are paid. Besides this, the traveller's name has to
be three times printed in the newspaper, so that if he has debts,
his creditors may know of his departure. With these delays it takes
at least eight days, frequently, however, two or three weeks to get
away; it is not, however, necessary to wait for these forms, if the
traveller provides security.
The Austrian Consul, Herr Gutenthal, answered for me, and I was thus
able to bid adieu to Russia on the 2nd of October. That I did this
with a light heart it is not necessary for me to assure my readers.
CHAPTER XXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS.
CONSTANTINOPLE - CHANGES - TWO FIRES - VOYAGE TO GREECE - QUARANTINE AT
AEGINA - A DAY IN ATHENS - CALAMACHI - THE ISTHMUS - PATRAS - CORFU.
Little can be said of the passage from Odessa to Constantinople; we
continued out at sea and did not land anywhere. The distance is 420
miles. The ship belonged to the Russian government, it was named
Odessa, was of 260 horse power, and was handsome, clean, and neat.
In order that my parting with my dear friends, the Russians, might
not be too much regretted, one of them was so good at the end of the
passage as to behave in a manner that was far from polite. During
the last night which was very mild and warm, I went out of the close
cabin on to the deck, and placed myself not far from the compass-
box, where I soon began to sleep, wrapt in my mantle. One of the
sailors came, and giving me a kick with his foot, told me to leave
the place. I thanked him quietly for the delicate way in which he
expressed himself, and requesting him to leave me at peace,
continued to sleep.
Among the passengers were six English sailors, who had taken a new
ship to Odessa, and were returning home. I spoke with them several
times, and had soon quite won them. As they perceived that I was
without any companion, they asked me if I spoke enough Turkish to be
able to get what I wanted from the ship's people and porters. On my
answering that I did, they offered to manage everything for me if I
would go on shore with them. I willingly accepted their offer.
As we approached land a customs' officer came on board to examine
our luggage. In order to avoid delay I gave him some money. When
we landed I wanted to pay, but the English sailors would not allow
it; they said I had paid for the customs' officer, and it was
therefore their time to pay for the boat. I saw that I should only
have affronted them if I had pressed them further to receive the
money. They settled with the porter for me, and we parted good
friends. How different was the behaviour of these English sailors
from that of the three well-bred Russian gentlemen at Jalta!
The passage into the Bosphorus, as well as the objects of interest
in Constantinople, I have already described in my journey to the
Holy Land. I went immediately to my good friend Mrs. Balbiani; but,
to my regret, found that she was not in Constantinople; she had
given up her hotel. I was recommended to the hotel "Aux Quatre
Nations," kept by Madame Prust. She was a talkative French woman,
who was always singing the praises of her housekeeping, servants,
cookery, etc., in which, however, none of the travellers agreed with
her. She charged forty piasters (8s.), and put down a good round
sum in the bill for servants' fees and such like.
Since my last stay here a handsome new wooden bridge had been
erected over the Golden Horn, and the women did not seem to be so
thickly veiled as on my first visit to Constantinople. Many of them
wore such delicately woven veils that their faces could almost be
seen through them: others had only the forehead and chin covered,
and left their eyes, nose, and cheeks exposed.
The suburb of Pera looked very desolate. There had been a number of
fires, which were increased by two during my stay; they were called
"small," as by the first only a hundred and thirty shops, houses,
and cottages, and by the second, only thirty were burned to the
ground.
