The
jolly-boat of the steamer was indeed there, but the sailors refused
to take us, as the jolly-boat was ordered for the captain. We were
obliged to hire a boat, for which each had to pay twenty kopecs
(8d.) The gentlemen knew that I did not speak Russian but they did
not think I partially understood the language. I, however,
overheard one of them say to the other "I have no change with me,
let us leave the woman to pay." Upon this the other turned round to
me, and said in French, "The share that you have to pay is twenty
silver kopecs." These were gentlemen who made pretensions to
honesty and honour.
29th September. Today we stopped at the strong and beautiful
fortress Sewastopol. The works are partly situated at the entrance
of the harbour, and partly in the harbour itself; they are executed
in massive stone, and possess a number of towers and outworks which
defend the entrance to the harbour. The harbour itself is almost
entirely surrounded by hills, and is one of the safest and most
excellent in the world. It can hold the largest fleets, and is so
deep that the most gigantic men-of-war can lie at anchor close to
the quays. Sluices, docks and quays have been constructed in
unlimited splendour and magnificence. The whole of the works were
not quite finished, and there was an unparalleled activity apparent.
Thousands of men were busy on all sides. Among the workmen I was
shown many of the captured Polish nobles who had been sent here as a
punishment for their attempt, in 1831, to shake of the Russian yoke.
The works of the fortress and the barracks are so large that they
will hold about 30,000 men.
The town itself is modern, and stands upon a range of barren hills.
The most attractive among the buildings is the Greek church, as it
stands quite alone on a hill, and is built in the style of a Grecian
temple. The library is situated on the highest ground. There is
also an open-columned hall near the club, with stone steps leading
to the sea-shore, which serves as the most convenient passage to the
town for those who land here. A Gothic monument to the memory of
Captain Cozar, who distinguished himself greatly at the battle of
Navarino, and was killed there, does not less excite the curiosity
of the traveller. Like the church, it stands alone upon a hill.
The streets here, as in all the new Russian towns, are broad and
clean.
30th September. Early in the morning we reached Odessa. The town
looks very well from the sea. It stands high; and consequently many
of the large and truly fine buildings can be seen at one glance.
Among these are the Palace of Prince Woronzoff, the Exchange, the
government offices, several large barracks, the quarantine
buildings, and many fine private houses. Although the surrounding
country is flat and barren, the number of gardens and avenues in the
town give it a pleasant appearance. In the harbour was a perfect
forest of masts. By far the greater number of ships do not lie
here, but in the quarantine harbour. Most of the ships come from
the Turkish shore, and are obliged to pass through a quarantine of
fourteen days, whether they have illness on board or not.
Odessa, the chief town of the government of Cherson, is, from its
situation on the Black Sea, and at the mouth of the Dniester and
Dnieper, one of the most important places of commerce in South
Russia. It contains 50,000 inhabitants, was founded in 1794, and
declared a free port in 1817. A fine citadel entirely commands the
harbour.
The Duke of Richelieu contributed most to the advancement of Odessa;
for after having made several campaigns against his native country
(France) in an emigrant corps, he went to Russia; and in 1803 was
made governor-general of Cherson. He filled this post until 1814,
during which time he brought the town to its present position. When
he was appointed it contained scarcely 5,000 inhabitants. One of
the finest streets bears the name of the duke, and several squares
are also named in honour of him.
I remained only two days in Odessa. On the third I started by the
steamer for Constantinople. I went through the town and suburbs in
every direction. The finest part lies towards the sea, especially
the boulevard, which is furnished with fine avenues of trees, and
offers a delightful promenade; a life-size statue of the Duke
Richelieu forms a fine ornament to it. Broad flights of stone steps
lead from here down to the sea-shore; and in the background are rows
of handsome palaces and houses. The most remarkable among them are
the Government House, the Hotel St. Petersburgh, and the Palace of
Prince Woronzoff, built in the Italian style, with a tasteful garden
adjoining. At the opposite end of the boulevard is the Exchange,
also built in the Italian style, and surrounded by a garden. Not
far from this is the Academy of Arts, a rather mediocre one-story
building. The Theatre, with a fine portico, promises much outside,
but is nothing great within. Next to the theatre is the Palais
Royal, which consists of a pretty garden, round which are ranged
large handsome shops, filled with costly goods. Many articles are
also hung out, but the arrangement is not near so tasteful as is the
case in Vienna or Hamburgh.
Among the churches the Russian cathedral is the most striking. It
has a lofty arched nave and a fine dome. The nave rests upon strong
columns covered with brilliant white plaster, which looks like
marble.
