The steamer stayed twenty-four hours at Jalta. I took advantage of
the time to make an excursion to Alupka, one of the estates of
Prince Woronzoff, famous for a castle which is considered one of the
curiosities of the Crimea. The road to it passed over low ranges of
hills close to the sea through a true natural park, which had here
and there been embellished by the help of art. The most elegant
castles and country-houses belonging to the Russian nobles are
seated between woods and groves, gardens and vineyards, in open
spaces on hills and declivities. The whole prospect is so charming,
that it appears as if prosperity, happiness, and peace, only reigned
here.
The first villa which attracted me was that of Count Leo Potocki.
The building is extremely tasteful. The gardens were laid out with
art and sumptuousness. The situation is delightful, with an
extensive view of the sea and neighbourhood.
A second magnificent building, which, however, is more remarkable
for magnitude than beauty of construction, lies near the sea-shore.
It resembles an ordinary square house with several stories; and, as
I was informed, was built as a country bathing-place of the emperor,
but had not yet been made use of. This castle is called Oriander.
Far handsomer than this palace was the charming country-house of
Prince Mirzewsky. It is seated on a hill, in the centre of a
magnificent park, and affords a delightful view of the mountains and
sea. The principal front is Gothic.
The villa of Prince Gallizin is built entirely in the Gothic style.
The pointed windows, and two towers of which, decorated with a
cross, give to it the appearance of a church, and the beholder
involuntarily looks for the town to which this gorgeous building
belongs.
This place lies nearly at the extremity of the fine country. From
here the trees are replaced by dwarf bushes, and finally by
brambles; the velvety-green turf is succeeded by stony ground, and
steep rocks rise behind, at the foot of which lie a quantity of
fallen fragments.
Even here very pretty seats are to be seen; but they are entirely
artificial, and want the charm of nature.
After travelling about thirteen wersti, the road winds round a stony
hill, and the castle of Prince Woronzoff comes in sight in its
entire extent. The appearance of it is not by any means so fine as
I had imagined. The castle is built entirely of stone, of the same
colour as the neighbouring rocks. If a large park surrounded the
castle, it would stand out more prominently, and the beauty and
magnificence of its architecture would be better shown. There is,
indeed, a well laid out garden, but it is yet new and not very
extensive. The head gardener, Herr Kebach (a German), is a master
in his art; he well knows how to manage the naked barren land, so
that it will bear not only the ordinary trees, plants, and flowers,
but even the choicest exotic plants.
The castle is built in the Gothic style, and is full of towers,
pinnacles, and buttresses, such as are seen in similar well
preserved buildings of olden time. The principal front is turned
towards the sea. Two lions, in Carrara marble, artistically
sculptured, lie in comfortable ease at the top of the majestic
flight of steps which lead from the castle far down to the sea-
shore.
The interior arrangement of the castle reminded me of the "Arabian
Nights;" every costly thing from all parts of the world, such as
fine woods and choice works of art, is to be seen here in the
greatest perfection and splendour. There are state apartments in
Oriental, Chinese, Persian, and European styles; and, above all, a
garden saloon, which is quite unique, for it not only contains the
finest and rarest flowers but even the tallest trees. Palms, with
their rich leafy crowns, extend to a great height, climbing plants
cover the walls, and on all sides are flowers and blossoms. The
most delightful odour diffused itself through the air, cushioned
divans stood half-buried under the floating leaves; in fact,
everything combined to produce the most magical impression upon the
senses.
The owner of this fairy palace was unfortunately absent at a fete on
a neighbouring estate. I had letters to him, and should have been
glad to have made his acquaintance, as I had heard him spoken of
here, both by rich and poor, as a most noble, just and generous man.
I was, indeed, persuaded to wait his return, but I could not accept
this offer, as I should have had to wait eight days for the arrival
of the next steamer, and my time was already very limited.
In the neighbourhood of the castle is a Tartar village, of which
there are many in the Crimea. The houses are remarkable for their
flat earth roofs, which are more used by the inhabitants than the
interior of the huts; as the climate is mild and fine they pass the
whole day at their work on the roofs, and at night sleep there. The
dress of the men differs somewhat from that of the Russian peasants,
the women dress in the Oriental fashion, and have their faces
uncovered.
I never saw such admirably planted and clean vineyards as here. The
grapes are very sweet, and of a good flavour; the wine light and
good, and perfectly suited for making champagne, which indeed is
sometimes done. I was told that more than a hundred kinds of grapes
are grown in the gardens of Prince Woronzoff.
When I returned to Jalta, I was obliged to wait more than two hours,
as the gentlemen with whom I was to go on board had not yet finished
their carouse.
