A collection of earthen jars, water jugs and lamps, called to my
mind those in the museum at Naples. The jars, burnt and painted
brown, have a form similar to those discovered at Herculaneum and
Pompeii. The water jugs are furnished with two ears, and are so
pointed at the bottom, that they will not stand unless rested
against something. This form of vessel is still used in Persia.
Among other glass-ware, there were some flasks which consisted
almost entirely of long necks, bracelets, rings and necklaces of
gold; some small four-cornered embossed sheets, which were worn
either on the head or chest, and some crowns, made of laurel
wreaths, were very elegant. There were chains and cauldrons in
copper, and ugly grotesque faces and ornaments of various kinds,
which were probably fixed on the exterior of the houses. I saw some
coins which were remarkably well stamped.
I had now to visit the tumuli. I sought long and in vain for a
guide: very few strangers come to this place, and there are
consequently no regular guides. At last there was nothing left for
me but to apply to the Austrian Vice-consul, Herr Nicolits. This
gentleman was not only willing to comply with my wish, but was even
so obliging as to accompany me himself.
The tumuli are monuments of an entirely peculiar character; they
consist of a passage about sixty feet long, fourteen broad, and
twenty-five high, and a very small chamber at the end of the
passage. The walls of the passage are sloping, like the roof of a
house, and contract so much at the top, that at the utmost one foot
is left between. They are built of long and very thick stone slabs,
which are placed over each other in such a way that the upper row
projects about six or seven inches beyond the under one. Upon the
opening at the top are placed massive slabs of stone. Looking down
from the entrance, the walls appear as if fluted. The room, which
is a lengthened quadrangle, is spanned by a small arched roof, and
is built in the same manner as the passage. After the sarcophagus
was deposited in the room, the whole monument was covered with
earth.
The fine marble sarcophagus which is in the Museum, was taken from a
tumulus which was situated near the quarantine house, and is
considered to be that of King Bentik.
The greater number of the monuments were opened by the Turks; the
remainder were uncovered by the Russian government. Many of the
bodies were found ornamented with jewels and crowns of leaves, like
those in the Museum; an abundance of coins was also found.
The 26th of September was a great festival among the Russians, who
celebrated the finding of the cross. The people brought bread,
pastry, fruit, etc., to the church, by way of sacrifice. The whole
of these things were laid up in one corner. After the service, the
priest blessed them, gave some few morsels to the beggars round him,
and had the remainder packed into a large basket and sent to his
house.
In the afternoon, nearly the whole of the people went to the burial-
ground. The common people took provisions with them, which were
also blessed by the priests, but were hastily consumed by the
owners.
I saw only a few people in the Russian dress. This consists, both
for men and women, of long wide blue cloth coats; the men wear low
felt hats, with broad brims, and have their hair cut even all round;
the women bind small silk kerchiefs round their heads.
Before finishing my account of Kertsch, I must mention that there
are naphtha springs in the neighbourhood; but I did not visit them,
as they were described to me as precisely similar to those at
Tiflis.
The next part of my journey was to Odessa. I could go either by sea
or land. The latter was said to present many objects of beauty and
interest; but I preferred the former, as I had in the first place no
great admiration of the Russian post; and, secondly, I was heartily
anxious to turn my back upon the Russian frontiers.
On the 27th of September, at 8 in the morning, I went on board the
Russian steamer Dargo, of 100 horse power. The distance from Odessa
to Constantinople amounts to 420 miles. The vessel was handsome and
very clean, and the fare very moderate. I paid for the second cabin
thirteen silver roubles, or twenty florins fifty kreutzers (2 pounds
1s. 4d.) The only thing which did not please me in the Russian
steamer, was the too great attention of the steward who, as I was
told, pays for his office. All the travellers are compelled to take
their meals with him, the poor deck passengers not excepted, who
have often to pay him their last kopecs.
About afternoon we came to Feodosia (Caffa), which was formerly the
largest and most important town in the Crimea, and was called the
second Constantinople. It was at the height of its prosperity about
the end of the fifteenth century, under the dominion of Genueser.
Its population at that time is said to have been upwards of 200,000.
It has now declined to a minor town, with 5,000 inhabitants.
Half-ruined fortification walls and towers of the time of Genueser
remain, as well as a fine mosque, which has been turned into a
Christian church by the Russians.
The town lies upon a large bay of the Black Sea, on the declivity of
barren hills. Pretty gardens between the houses form the only
vegetation to be seen.
28th September. We stopped this morning at Jalta, a very small
village, containing 500 inhabitants, and a handsome church founded
by the Prince Woronzoff.
