The priests, in sumptuous robes, conducted the funeral
ceremonies, which were very similar to the Catholic. The poor
mother, at whose side I accidentally happened to kneel, sobbed
loudly when preparations were made to carry away the dear remains.
I also could not restrain my tears: I wept not for the death of the
child, but for the deep grief of the afflicted parent.
Leaving this place of mourning, I visited some Greek and Armenian
families. I was received in spacious rooms, which were fitted up in
the most simple manner. Along the walls stood painted wooden
benches partly covered with rugs. On these benches the people sit,
eat, and sleep. The women wear Grecian dresses.
European and Asiatic costumes are seen so frequently together in the
streets, that neither the one nor the other appears peculiar. The
greatest novelty to me, in this respect, was the Circassian dress.
It consists of wide trousers, short coats full of folds, with narrow
sashes, and breast pockets for from six to ten cartridges; tight
half-boots, with points turned inwards, and close-fitting fur caps.
The more wealthy wore coats of fine dark-blue cloth, and the edges
were ornamented with silver.
The Circassians are distinguished from all other Caucasian people by
their beauty. The men are tall, have very regular features and
great ease in their motions. The women are of a more delicate
build; their skin is whiter, their hair dark, their features
regular, their figures slender, with their busts well developed: in
the Turkish harems they are considered the greatest beauties. I
must confess, however, that I have seen many handsomer women in the
Persian harems than in the Turkish, even when they contained
Circassians.
The Asiatic women, when in the streets here, wrap themselves in
large white mantles; many cover the mouth as well, and some few the
remainder of the face.
Of the domestic life of the Russian officials and officers I cannot
say much. I had, indeed, a letter to the chancellor director, Herr
von Lille, and to the governor, Herr von Jermaloff; but both
gentlemen were not much pleased with me - my free expression of
opinion, perhaps, did not suit them. I made no scruple of speaking
my mind with regard to the ill-regulated posting establishments, and
the miserable roads. I, moreover, related my imprisonment, with a
few comments; and, what crowned all, I said that I had intended to
have gone on from here across the Caucasus to Moscow and
Petersburgh, but that I had been completely deterred from doing so
by my short experience of travelling in the country, and would take
the shortest road to get beyond the frontier as soon as possible.
If I had been a man and had spoken so, I should probably have been
treated with a temporary residence in Siberia.
Herr von Lille, however, always received me with politeness when I
called on him for the purpose of having my passport prepared. The
governor did not treat me with a like consideration; first he put me
off from one day to another, then it pleased the mighty man to pass
two days in the country. When he came back, it was a Sunday; on
which day such a great work could not possibly be done, and so I did
not obtain my passport until the sixth day.
Thus it fared with me, who was provided with letters to the chief
officers, - how do poor people come off? I heard, indeed, that they
are often kept waiting two or three weeks.
The viceroy, Prince Woronzou, was unfortunately not in Tiflis at the
time. I regretted his absence the more, as I everywhere heard him
represented as an educated, just, and extremely amiable man.
Far pleasanter than these visits to the Russian governor was that to
the Persian Prince Behmen Mirza, to whom I brought letters and
intelligence from his family, who were remaining in Tebris.
Although he was ill at the time, nevertheless he received me. I was
conducted into a large saloon, a complete hospital for eight sick
persons: the prince, four of his children, and three wives, laid
there upon rugs and cushions. They all suffered from fever. The
prince was a remarkably handsome and powerful man of five and
thirty; his full eyes were expressive of intelligence and goodness.
He spoke with great regret of his fatherland; a smile of painful
delight played round his features when I mentioned his children,
{312} and related how safely and well I had travelled through those
provinces which, but a short time before, had been under his
control. What a happiness would it be for Persia if such a man as
this was to come to the throne instead of the young viceroy.
The most interesting, and, at the same time, useful acquaintance
which I made was that of Herr Salzmann, a German. This gentleman
possesses considerable knowledge of agriculture, and more than all,
a singularly good heart; he interests himself for all kinds of
people, and more especially his own countrymen. Wherever I
mentioned his name, people spoke of him with true respect. He had
just received a decoration from the Russian government, although he
was not in their service.
Herr Salzmann has built a very handsome house, with every possible
convenience for the reception of travellers; besides this he owns a
large fruit-garden, ten wersti distant from the town, in the
neighbourhood of which are some naphtha springs. When he found that
I wished to see these he immediately invited me to join a party to
visit them. The springs are situated very near to the Kurry.
Square pits, about twenty-five fathoms deep, are dug, and the
naphtha is dipped out by means of wooden buckets. This naphtha,
however, is of the commonest kind, of a dark brown colour, and
thicker than oil.
