I was told these and other things by a very trustworthy person, and
they may serve to give my readers some slight idea of the system of
government in Persia.
I was presented to the viceroy a few days after my arrival. I was
conducted one afternoon by Dr. Cassolani to one of the royal summer-
houses. The house was situated in a small garden, which was
surrounded by another larger one, both enclosed by very high walls.
In the outer garden there were, besides meadows and fruit trees,
nothing deserving of much notice, except a number of tents, in which
the military were encamped. The soldiers wore the usual Persian
dress, with the single exception that the officers on duty had a
sword, and the soldiers a musket. They only appear in uniform on
the most rare occasions, and then they are, in some respects, like
European soldiers.
Several eunuchs received us at the entrance of the small garden.
They conducted us to an unpretending looking house, one story high,
at the end of a field of flowers. I should never have looked for
the country seat of the successor to the Persian throne in this
house; but such it was. At the narrow entrance of the little house
were two small flights of stairs, one of which led to the reception-
room of the viceroy, the other to that of his wife. The doctor
entered the former and several female slaves took me to the
viceroy's wife. When I reached the top of the stairs, I took off my
shoes, and entered a small, comfortable room, the walls of which
consisted almost entirely of windows. The viceroy's wife, who was
only fifteen years of age, sat upon a plain easy chair, not far from
her stood a middle-aged woman, the duenna of the harem, and an easy
chair was placed for me opposite the princess.
I was fortunate enough to be remarkably well received. Dr.
Cassolani had described me as an authoress, adding that I intended
to publish the experiences of my journey. The princess inquired
whether I should mention her also, and when she was answered in the
affirmative, she determined to show herself in full dress, in order
to give me an idea of the gorgeous and costly dress of her country.
The young princess wore trousers of thick silk, which were so full
of plaits that they stood out stiff, like the hooped petticoats of
our good old times. These trousers are from twenty to five and
twenty yards wide, and reach down to the ankle. The upper part of
the body was covered as far as the hips by a bodice, which, however,
did not fit close to the body. The sleeves were long and narrow.
The corset resembled that of the time of the hooped petticoats; it
was made of thick silk, richly and tastefully embroidered round the
corners with coloured silk and gold. A very short white silk
chemise was to be seen under the corset. On her head she wore a
three-cornered white kerchief, extending in front round the face,
and fastened under the chin; behind, it fell down as far as the
shoulders. This kerchief was also very handsomely embroidered with
gold and silk. The jewellery consisted of precious stones and
pearls of great purity and size; but they had not much effect, as
they were not set in gold, but simply perforated and strung upon a
gold thread, which was fastened above the head kerchief, and came
down under the chin.
The princess had on black silk open-worked gloves, over which were
several finger rings. Round the wrists sparkled costly bracelets of
precious stones and pearls. On her feet she wore white silk
stockings.
She was not remarkably beautiful; her cheek bones were rather too
prominent; but altogether her appearance was very attractive. Her
eyes were large, handsome, and intellectual, her figure pretty, and
her age - fifteen years.
Her face was a very delicate white and red; and the eyebrows were
covered with blue streaks, which, in my opinion, rather disfigured
than adorned them. On the temple a little of her brilliant black
hair was to be seen.
Our conversation was carried on by signs. Dr. Cassolani, who spoke
Persian very well, was not allowed to cross the threshold today, and
the princess had received me, consequently, unveiled. During this
stupid interview, I found time enough to look at the distant view
from the windows. It was here that I first saw how extensive the
town was, and what an abundance of gardens it possessed. The latter
are, indeed, its peculiar ornament, for it contains no fine
buildings; and the large valley in which it lies, together with the
mountains round, are naked and barren, and present no attractions.
I expressed my surprise at the great size of the town and the number
of the gardens.
Towards the end of the audience, a quantity of fruits and sweetmeats
were brought, of which, however, I alone partook - it being fast
time.
Leaving the princess, I was conducted to her husband, the viceroy.
He was seventeen, and received me seated upon an easy chair at a
bow-window. I had to thank my character of authoress, that a chair
was placed ready for me. The walls of the large room were panelled
with wood, and ornamented with several mirrors, gilt-work, and oil-
paintings of heads and flowers. In the middle of the saloon stood
two large empty bedsteads.
The prince wore a European dress: trousers of fine white cloth,
with broad gold lace; a dark blue coat, the collar, facings, and
corners of which were richly embroidered with gold; white silk
gloves and stockings. His head was covered by a Persian fur cap
nearly a yard high.
