Words, but I picked up the
mantle and threw it at his feet, and explained to him that I would
keep the remainder of the fare if he did not bring me to Oromia to-
morrow on the third day. I then turned my back to him (one of the
greatest slights), seated myself on the ground, and, resting my head
in my hands, gave myself up to the most melancholy reflections.
What should I have done here if my guide had left me, or had thought
fit to remain until a caravan happened to pass by.
During my dispute with the guide, some women had come up from the
village. They brought me some milk and some hot food, seated
themselves by me, and inquired what I was so troubled about.
I endeavoured to explain the whole affair. They understood me and
took my part. They were vexed with my guide, and endeavoured to
console me. They did not stir from me, and pressed me so heartily
to partake of their food, that I found myself compelled to eat some.
It consisted of bread, eggs, butter, and water, which were boiled up
together. Notwithstanding my trouble, I enjoyed it very much. When
I offered the good people a trifle for this meal they would not take
it. They seemed gratified that I was more at ease.
30th July. About 1 o'clock at night my guide began to stir himself,
saddled my horse, and called me to mount. Still I was at a loss to
understand his proceedings, for I saw no signs of a caravan. Could
he mean to take his revenge on me? Why did he travel at night
through a country which he ought to have chosen day-time for? I did
not understand enough Persian to be able to obtain an explanation,
and did not wish to say anything more to the fellow about not
keeping his contract, so I was obliged to go - and I did go.
With great anxiety I mounted my horse and ordered my guide, who was
inclined to ride behind, to go on in front. I had no mind to be
attacked from behind, and kept my hand constantly on my pistols. I
listened to every sound, watched every movement of my guide, even
the shadow of my own horse sometimes scared me; however, I did not
turn back.
After a sharp ride of about half-an-hour, we came up with a large
caravan train, which was guarded by half a dozen well-armed
peasants. It really appeared that the place was very dangerous, and
that my guide had been acquainted with the passing of a caravan.
Nothing caused me more surprise on this occasion, than the indolence
of these people. As they are accustomed to travel in the night
during the hot season, they also continue the custom at other times,
and pass through the most dangerous places, although the danger
would be much less during the day.
After some hours we came to the Lake Oromia, which henceforth
continued on our right side; on the left lay barren hills, ravines
and mountains, extending for some miles, forming a most dreaded
place. Morning brought us into another beautiful fruitful valley,
studded with villages, the sight of which gave me courage to leave
the caravan, and hasten on.
The Lake Oromia, from which the town takes its name, is more than
sixty miles long, and in many places more than thirty wide. It
appears closely surrounded by lofty mountains, although considerable
levels intervene. Its water contains so much salt, that neither
fish nor mollusca can live in it. It is a second Dead Sea - it is
said that a human body cannot sink in it. Large patches of the
shore are covered with thick, white saline incrustations, so that
the people have only to separate the salt they want from the ground.
Although the lake, and the country round it are very beautiful, they
do not present a very attractive prospect, as the surface of the
lake is not enlivened by any boats.
Since I had left the sandy deserts round Baghdad, I had not seen any
camels, and thought that I should not see this animal again, as I
was travelling northwards. To my astonishment, we met several
trains of camels, and I learnt afterwards, that these animals were
used as beasts of burden by the Kurds, as well as the Arabs. This
is a proof that they are able to bear a colder climate; for in
winter the snow drifts to a depth of several feet in the valleys.
The camels in these districts are somewhat more robust, their feet
are thicker, their hair closer and longer, their necks longer, and
not nearly so slender, and their colour darker. I did not see any
light-coloured ones.
The Kurds of the valleys employ beasts of burden for carrying their
crops, as well as waggons, which are however very simple and clumsy.
The body is formed of several long thin stems of trees bound
together; the axles of shorter stems, with disks of thick board for
wheels, of which each waggon has generally only two. Four oxen are
yoked to these, each pair being led by a guide, who sits very oddly
on the shaft between the yoke, with his back towards them.
Late in the evening, we reached Oromia safely, after a hard ride of
more than sixteen hours. I had no letters to any of the
missionaries, and with the exception of Mr. Wright, they were all
absent. They lived with their wives and children in the country.
However, Mr. Wright received me with true Christian friendship, and
after many disagreeable days I again found comfort.
The first evening I laughed heartily when Mr. Wright told me in what
manner the servant had informed him of my arrival.
