A moment's quiet in
my corner, and was not unfrequently in danger of coming in for my
share, for they amused themselves by spitting and throwing large
blocks of wood at each other's heads. The eldest son several times
throttled his mother in such a way that she became black and blue in
the face. I always endeavoured, indeed, to establish peace; but it
was very seldom that I succeeded, as I was unfortunately not
sufficient master of the language to make them understand the
impropriety of their conduct.
It was only in the evening, when the father returned, that there was
any order of peace; they dare not quarrel then, much less fight.
I never met with such conduct among any people - even the poorest or
lowest classes of the so-called heathens or unbelievers; I never saw
their children attempt to strike their parents. When I left Sauh-
Bulak, I wrote a letter for the missionary, in which I directed his
attention to the failings of this family, and besought him to
counteract them, by teaching them that religion does not consist
merely in prayers and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church.
My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus. I daily
entreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if
the journey should be attended with some danger. He shook his head
and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that if I
travelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded.
I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer.
I begged the merchant to hire me a horse and a guide, and made up my
mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all
dangers or other circumstances. I knew that I should find American
missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety
about proceeding on further.
The merchant came on the following day, accompanied by a wild-
looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide. I was obliged,
in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay
four times as much; but I was willing to accede to anything to be
able to get away. The bargain was made, and the guide pledged
himself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in
three days. I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained
the other half until we came to our journey's end, so as to be able
to fine him in case he did not keep his agreement.
I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was concluded,
and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars, and
walked about outside the town.
This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of
hills. Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never
annoyed out of doors. The bazaars are less beggarly than those at
Ravandus, the chan is large and comfortable. I found the appearance
of the common people very repulsive. Tall and strongly built, with
marked features, which were still more disfigured by an expression
of wildness and ferocity, they all appeared to me like robbers or
murderers.
In the evening I put my pistols in proper order, and made up my mind
not to sell my life cheaply.
28th July. Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not
start until towards mid-day. I travelled on with my guide through
desolate roads between treeless hills, and trembled involuntarily
when any one met us. However, thank God, there were no adventures
to go through. We had to fight indeed, but only with tremendous
swarms of large grasshoppers which flew up in some places in clouds.
They were about three inches long, and were furnished with large
wings of a red or blue colour. All the plants and grass in the
district were eaten away. I was told that the natives catch these
grasshoppers and dry and eat them. Unluckily I never saw any such
dish.
After a ride of seven hours we came to a large fruitful and
inhabited valley. Today's journey seemed to promise a favourable
termination, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and
frequently passed villages. Some peasants were still working here
and there in the fields, their appearance greatly amused me: they
wore the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted
with their ragged dress.
We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-Jur.
If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal of
turtle. I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even
in the fields, and had only to pick them up. But then to hunt for
wood, make a fire, and cook! No; I preferred eating a crust of
bread and a cucumber in quiet.
29th July. This morning we reached, in three hours, the village of
Mahomed-Schar. To my astonishment my driver made preparations for
stopping here. I urged him to continue the journey, but he
explained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan,
as the most dangerous part of the journey was now before us. At the
same time he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining
stubble field, and endeavoured to make me understand that in a few
hours a caravan was going our way. The whole day passed, and the
caravan did not appear. I thought that my guide was deceiving me;
and was exceedingly irritated when, in the evening, he arranged my
mantle on the ground for me to sleep.
