My fear lessened afterwards, as I did not meet with any,
even in the dirtiest places; in ruins, court-yards, or sardabs.
Altogether I only saw two during my whole journey, but I suffered a
great deal from other vermin, which are only to be removed by
burning the clothes and linen.
I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room, when one
woman after the other came in; the women were followed by the
children, and then by several neighbours, who had heard of the
arrival of an Inglesi; I was worse off here than under the gateway.
At last, one of the women luckily thought of offering me a bath, and
I accepted the proposal with great joy. Hot water was prepared, and
they made a sign for me to follow them, which I did, and found
myself in the sheep-stall, which, perhaps, had not been cleaned for
years, or indeed as long as it had stood. In this place they pushed
two stones together, upon which I was to stand, and in the presence
of the whole company, who followed me like my shadow, allow myself
to be bathed with water. I made signs to them to go out, as I
wished to perform this office myself; they did indeed leave me, but
as misfortune had it, the stall had no door, and they were all able
to look in just the same.
I passed four days among these people, the day time in dark
recesses, the evenings and nights upon the terraces. I was obliged,
like my hostess, constantly to squat down on the ground, and when I
wanted to write anything I had to make use of my knees instead of a
table. Every day they told me there was a caravan going away to-
morrow. Alas! they said so only to quiet me, they saw, perhaps, how
disagreeable the stay was to me. The women lounged about the whole
day sleeping or chattering, playing with, or scolding the children.
They preferred going about in dirty rags to mending and washing
them, and they allowed their children to tyrannize over them
completely.
When the latter wanted anything and did not get it, they threw
themselves on the ground, struck about with their hands and feet,
howling and shrieking until they obtained what they desired.
They had no fixed meal-times during the day, but the women and
children were constantly eating bread, cucumbers, melons and
buttermilk. In the evenings they bathed very much, and every one
washed their hands, faces, and feet, which ceremony was frequently
repeated three or four times before prayers; but there was a great
want of real devotion: in the middle of the prayers they chattered
right and left. However, there is not much difference with us.
Notwithstanding all these glaring and gross defects I found these
people very amiable: they willingly permitted themselves to be
taught, admitted their failings, and always allowed me to be right
when I said or explained anything to them. For example, the little
Ascha, a girl seven years of age was very intractable. If she was
denied anything she threw herself on the ground, crying miserably,
rolling about in the filth and dirt, and smearing with her dirty
hands the bread, melons, etc. I endeavoured to make the child
conscious of her misbehaviour, and succeeded beyond all expectation.
I, in fact, imitated her. The child looked at me astounded, upon
which I asked if it had pleased her. She perceived the
offensiveness of her conduct, and I did not often need to imitate
her. It was just the same with regard to cleanliness. She
immediately washed herself carefully, and then came running joyfully
to me showing her hands and face. During the few days I was here
the child became so fond of me that she would not leave my side, and
sought in every way to make friends with me.
I was not less fortunate with the women; I pointed out their torn
clothes, brought needles, and thread, and taught them how to sew and
mend. They were pleased with this, and I had in a short time a
whole sewing school round me.
How much good might be done here by any one who knew the language
and had the inclination, only the parents must be taught at the same
time as the children.
What a fine field is here open to the missionaries if they would
accustom themselves to live among these people, and with kindness
and patience to counteract their failings! As it is, however, they
devote at the utmost only a few hours in the day to them, and make
their converts come to them, instead of visiting them in their own
houses.
The women and girls in the Asiatic countries receive no education,
those in the towns have little or no employment, and are left to
themselves during the whole day. The men go at sunrise to the
bazaars, where they have their stalls or workshops, the bigger boys
go to school or accompany their fathers, and neither return home
before sunset. There the husband expects to find the carpets spread
out on the terraces, the supper ready, and the nargilly lighted, he
then plays a little with the young children, who, however, during
meal-time are obliged to keep away with their mothers. The women in
the villages have more liberty and amusement, as they generally take
part in the housekeeping. It is said that the people in the country
here are, as among ourselves, more moral than in the towns.
The dress worn by the richer Kurds is the Oriental, that of the
common people differs slightly from it.
