Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-tree and another
large tree. In this country trees are rare. The mountains
surrounding us were naked and barren, and in the valleys there grew
at most some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and
chrysanthemums.
The noble pilgrim took upon himself to point out my place under the
large tree, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him no
reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. Ali, who was
far better than he looked, brought me a jug of buttermilk, and
altogether today passed off tolerably pleasantly.
Several women from the village visited me and begged for money, but
I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be
attacked by all if I gave to one. I once gave a child a little
ring, and not only the other children, but their mothers and
grandmothers, crowded round me. It cost me some trouble to keep
them from forcibly emptying my pockets. Since that time I was more
cautious. One of the women here changed her begging manner into one
so threatening, that I was heartily glad at not being alone with
her.
We left this village at 4 in the afternoon. The pilgrim separated
from us, and the caravan then consisted of only five men. In about
an hour and a half we reached an eminence from which we obtained a
view of an extensive and well cultivated hill country. The land in
Kurdistan is without comparison better than in Mesopotamia, and the
country is consequently better inhabited; we were, therefore
continually passing through different villages.
Before nightfall we entered a valley which was distinguished for
fresh rice plantations, beautiful shrubs, and green reeds: a brisk
stream murmured at our side, the heat of the day was now succeeded
by the evening shadows, and, at this moment we had nothing to wish
for. This good fortune, however, did not last long; one of the
pedlars was suddenly taken so ill that we were obliged to stop. He
nearly fell off his mule, and remained motionless. We covered him
with rugs, but beyond that we could not do anything for him, as we
had neither medicines nor other remedies with us. Fortunately, he
fell asleep after a few hours, and we squatted down on the ground
and followed his example.
12th July. This morning our patient was well again; a doubly
fortunate circumstance, as we had to pass a terribly rocky and stony
road. We were obliged to scramble up and down the mountainous side
of a valley, as the valley itself was completely occupied by the
irregular course of the river Badin, which wound in a serpentine
direction from side to side. Pomegranates and oleanders grew in the
valley, wild vines twined themselves round the shrubs and trees, and
larches covered the slopes of the hills.
After a difficult and dangerous ride of six hours, we came to a ford
of the river Badin. Our raft turned out to be so small that it
would carry only two men, and very little baggage; and we were, in
consequence, four hours in crossing. We stayed for the night not
far from the ferry of Vakani.
13th July. The road still continued bad; we had to ascend an
immense pile of mountains. Far and wide, nothing was to be seen but
rock and stone, although, to my astonishment, I observed that in
many places the stones had been gathered on one side, and every
little spot of earth made use of. A few dwarf ash-trees stood here
and there. The whole has the character of the country near Trieste.
Although there were no villages on the road, there appeared to be
some near, for on many of the heights I observed large burial-
places, especially on those which are overshadowed by ash-trees. It
is the custom throughout Kurdistan to establish the burial-places on
high situations.
We did not travel more than seven hours today, and halted in the
valley of Halifan. This little valley has an uncommonly romantic
situation; it is surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, which
rise with a gentle slope on one side, and on the other are steep and
precipitous. The whole valley was covered with a rich vegetation;
the stubble-fields were interspersed with tobacco and rice
plantations, and meadows. Poplar-trees surrounded the village,
which was pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill, and a stream of
crystalline clearness rushed forcibly out of a mountain chasm, and
flowed calmly and still through this delightful valley. Towards
evening, numerous herds of cows, sheep, and goats came from the
mountain-slopes towards the village.
We encamped at some distance from the village; I could not procure
any relish for my dry bread, and had no other bed than the hard
ground of a stubble-field. Nevertheless I should include this
evening among the most agreeable; the scenery round compensated me
sufficiently for the want of every other enjoyment.
14th July. Ali allowed us to rest only half the night; at 2 o'clock
we were again mounted. A few hundred paces from our resting-place
was the entrance of a stupendous mountain-pass. The space between
the sides of the rocks afforded only sufficient room for the stream
and a narrow pathway. Fortunately the moon shone out brilliantly,
otherwise it would have been scarcely possible for the most
practised animal to ascend the narrow and extremely dangerous road
between the fallen masses of rock and rolling stones. Our hardy
animals scrambled like chamois along, over the edges of the steep
precipices, and carried us with safety past the terrible abyss, at
the bottom of which the stream leapt, with a frightful roaring, from
rock to rock.
