After we had gone about sixteen miles, the country began to assume a
more hilly aspect, and we were soon surrounded by mountains on every
side. At the foot of each ascent we found extra horses in waiting
for us; these were yoked to the ordinary team, and whirled us
rapidly over all obstacles. Although there is a rise of about 2,000
feet on the road to Candy, we performed the distance, seventy-two
miles, in eleven hours.
The nearer we approached our destination, the more varied and
changing became the scenery. At one time we might be closely hemmed
in by the mountains, and then the next moment they would stretch
away, one above the other, while their summits seemed to contend
which should outrival the rest in altitude and beauty of outline.
They were covered, to the height of several thousand feet, with
luxuriant vegetation, which, for the most part, then generally
ceased, and gave way to the bare rock. I was not less interested,
however, with the curious teams we sometimes met, than I was with
the scenery. It is well known that Ceylon abounds in elephants,
many of which are captured and employed for various purposes. Those
that I now saw were yoked in twos or threes to large waggons, full
of stones for mending the roads.
Four miles before reaching Candy, we came to the river
Mahavilaganga, which is spanned by a masterly bridge of one arch.
The materials of the bridge are most costly, consisting of satin-
wood. In connection with this structure, I learned the following
legend.
After the conquest of the island by the English, the natives did not
give up the hope of once more attaining their independence, because
one of their oracles had declared that it was as impossible for the
enemy to obtain a lasting dominion over them, as it was for the
opposite banks of the Mahavilaganga to be united by a road. When
the bridge was begun, they smiled, and said that it could never be
successfully completed. At present, I was told, they think of
independence no more.
Near the bridge is a botanical garden which I visited the following
day, and was astonished at its excellent arrangement, and the
richness of its collection of flowers, plants, and trees.
Opposite the garden is one of the largest sugar-plantations, and, in
the neighbourhood, a number of coffee-plantations.
In my opinion, the situation of Candy is most beautiful, but many
affirm that it is too near the mountains, and lies in a pit. At any
rate, this pit is a very lovely one, abounding in the most luxuriant
vegetation.