People are not quite unanimous in their opinions with respect to
these ruins. Some affirm that they are the remains of the Tower of
Babel, others that they are those of the Temple of Baal.
There is an extensive view from the top of the hill over the desert,
the town of Hilla with its charming palm-gardens, and over
innumerable mounds of rubbish and brick-work. Near these ruins
stands an unimportant Mahomedan chapel, which is said to be on the
same spot where, according to the Old Testament, the three youths
were cast into the furnace for refusing to worship idols.
In the afternoon I was again in Hilla. I looked over the town,
which is said to contain 26,000 inhabitants, and found it built like
all Oriental towns. Before the Kerbela gates is to be seen the
little mosque Esshems, which contains the remains of the prophet
Joshua. It completely resembles the sepulchre of the Queen Zobiede
near Baghdad.
Towards evening the family of my obliging host, together with some
other women and children, paid me a visit. Their natural good sense
had deterred them from visiting me on the day of my arrival, when
they knew I was fatigued by the long ride. I would willingly have
excused their visit today also, for neither the rich nor poor Arabs
have much idea of cleanliness. They, moreover, would put the little
dirty children into my arms or on my lap, and I did not know how to
relieve myself of this pleasure. Many of them had Aleppo boils, and
others sore eyes and skin diseases. After the women and children
had left, my host came. He was, at least, clean in his dress, and
conducted himself with more politeness.
On the 2nd of July I left Hilla at sunrise, and went on, without
stopping, to the Khan Scandaria (sixteen miles), where I remained
some hours; and then went the same day as far as Bir-Zanus, sixteen
miles further. About an hour after midnight I again halted, and
took a soldier to accompany me. We had scarcely proceeded four or
five miles from the khan when we perceived a very suspicious noise.
We stopped, and the servant told me to be very quiet, so that our
presence might not be detected. The soldier dismounted, and crept
rather than walked in the sand to reconnoitre the dangerous spot.
My exhaustion was so great that, although alone in this dark night
on the terrible desert, I began to doze upon the horse, and did not
wake up till the soldier returned with a cry of joy, and told us
that we had not fallen in with a horde of robbers, but with a
sheikh, who, in company with his followers, were going to Baghdad.
We set spurs to our horses, hastened after the troop, and joined
them. The chief greeted me by passing his hand over his forehead
towards his breast; and, as a sign of his good will, offered me his
arms, a club with an iron head, covered with a number of spikes.
Only a sheikh is allowed to carry such a weapon.
I remained in the sheikh's company until sunrise, and then quickened
my horse's pace, and at about 8 o'clock was again seated in my
chamber at Baghdad, after having, in the short space of three days
and a half, ridden 132 miles and walked about a great deal. The
distance from Baghdad to Hilla is considered to be sixty miles, and
from Hilla to Birs Nimroud six.
I had now seen everything in and around Baghdad, and was desirous of
starting on my journey towards Ispahan. Just at this time the
Persian prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza, sent me a letter, informing
me that he had received very bad news from his native country; the
governor of Ispahan had been murdered, and the whole province was in
a state of revolt. It was therefore impossible to enter Persia by
this route. I decided in this case to go as far as Mosul, and there
determine my further course according to circumstances.
Before concluding my account of Baghdad, I must state that at first
I was greatly afraid of scorpions, as I had heard that there were
great numbers there; but I never saw one, either in the sardabs or
on the terraces, and during my stay of four weeks only found one in
the court.
CHAPTER XIX. MOSUL AND NINEVEH.
JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN THROUGH THE DESERT - ARRIVAL AT MOSUL -
CURIOSITIES - EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH AND THE VILLAGE OF
NEBBI YUNUS - SECOND EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH - TEL-NIMROUD -
ARABIAN HORSES - DEPARTURE FROM MOSUL.
In order to travel from Baghdad to Mosul safely, and without great
expense, it is necessary to join a caravan. I requested Herr
Swoboda to direct me to a trustworthy caravan guide. I was indeed
advised not to trust myself alone among the Arabs, at least to take
a servant with me; but with my limited resources this would have
been too expensive. Moreover, I was already pretty well acquainted
with the people, and knew from experience that they might be
trusted.
A caravan was to have left on the 14th of June, but the caravan
guides, like the ship captains, always delay some days, and so we
did not start until the 17th instead of the 14th.
The distance from Baghdad to Mosul is 300 miles, which occupy in
travelling from twelve to fourteen days. Travellers ride either
horses or mules, and in the hot months travel during the night.
I had hired a mule for myself and my little baggage, for which I
paid the low price of fifteen krans (12s. 6d.), and had neither
fodder nor anything else to provide.
