On each bank stood a beautiful palace,
and the two were united by an artistic bridge, and even a tunnel was
constructed by the Queen Semiramis. But the greatest curiosities
were the temples of Belus and the hanging gardens. The tower of the
temple was ornamented with three colossal figures, made of pure
gold, and representing gods. The hanging gardens (one of the seven
wonders of the world) are ascribed to Nebuchadnezar, who is said to
have built them at the wish of his wife Amytis.
Six hundred and thirty years before Christ, the Babylonian empire
was at the highest point of its magnificence. At this time it was
conquered by the Chaldeans. It was afterwards subject in succession
to the Persians, Osmans, Tartars, and others, until the year A.D.
1637, since which time it has remained under the Osman government.
The temple of Belus or Baal was destroyed by Xerxes, and Alexander
the Great would have restored it; but as it would have required
10,000 men for two months (others say two years) merely to remove
the rubbish, he did not attempt it.
One of the palaces is described as having been the residence of the
king, the other a castle. Unfortunately they are so fallen to
decay, that they afford no means of forming a satisfactory opinion
even to antiquarians. It is supposed, however, that the ruins
called Mujellibe are the remains of the castle. Another large heap
of ruins is situated about a mile distant, called El Kasir.
According to some, the temple of Baal stood here, according to
others the royal palace. Massive fragments of walls and columns are
still to be seen, and in a hollow a lion in dark grey granite, of
such a size that at some distance I took it for an elephant. It is
very much damaged, and, to judge from what remains, does not appear
to have been the work of a great artist.
The mortar is of extraordinary hardness; it is easier to break the
bricks themselves, than to separate them from it. The bricks of all
the ruins are partly yellow and partly red, a foot long, nearly as
broad, and half an inch thick.
In the ruins El Kasir stands a solitary tree, which belongs to a
species of firs which is quite unknown in this district. The Arabs
call it Athale, and consider it sacred. There are said to be
several of the same kind near Buschir - they are there called Goz or
Guz.
Many writers see something very extraordinary in this tree; indeed
they go so far as to consider it as a relic of the hanging gardens,
and affirm that it gives out sad melancholy tones when the wind
plays through its branches, etc. Everything, indeed, is possible
with God; but that this half-stunted tree which is scarcely eighteen
feet high, and whose wretched stem is at most only nine inches in
diameter, is full 3,000 years old, appears to me rather too
improbable!
The country round Babylon is said to have been formerly so
flourishing and fruitful, that it was called the Paradise of
Chaldea. This productiveness ceased with the existence of the
buildings.
As I had seen everything completely, I rode on as far as Hilla, on
the other side of the Euphrates. A most miserable bridge of forty-
six boats is here thrown across the river, which is four hundred and
thirty feet broad. Planks and trunks of trees are laid from one
boat to the other, which move up and down at every step; there is no
railing at the side, and the space is so narrow that two riders can
scarcely pass. The views along the river are very charming; I found
the vegetation here still rich, and several mosques and handsome
buildings give life to the blooming landscape.
In Hilla I was received by a rich Arab. As the sun was already very
near setting, I was shown to a beautiful terrace instead of a room.
A delicious pilau, roast lamb, and steamed vegetables were sent to
me for supper, with water and sour milk.
The terraces here were not surrounded by any walls, a circumstance
which was very agreeable to me, as it gave me an opportunity of
observing the mode of life and customs of my neighbours.
In the court-yards I saw the women engaged in making bread, and in
the same way as at Bandr-Abas. The men and children meanwhile
spread straw mats upon the terraces, and brought dishes with pilaus,
vegetables, or some other eatables. As soon as the bread was ready,
they began their meal. The women also seated themselves, and I
thought that the modern Arabs were sufficiently advanced in
civilization to give my sex their place at table. But to my regret
I saw the poor women, instead of helping themselves from the dishes,
take straw fans to keep off the flies from the heads of their
husbands. They may have had their meal afterwards in the house, for
I did not see them eat anything, either upon the terraces or in the
courts. They all slept upon the terraces. Both men and women
wrapped themselves in rugs, and neither the one nor the other took
off any of their clothing.
1st June. I had ordered for this morning two fresh horses and Arabs
as a guard, that I might proceed with some safety to the ruins of
Birs Nimroud. These ruins are situated six miles distant from
Hilla, in the desert or plain of Shinar, near the Euphrates, upon a
hill 265 feet high, built of bricks, and consist of the fragments of
a wall twenty-eight feet long, on one side thirty feet high, and on
the other thirty-five. The greater part of the bricks are covered
with inscriptions.
