A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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The Interpreter Explained To Me That The Prince Resided In Baghdad,
But On Account Of The Oppressive Heat, He Had Taken Up His Residence
Here For Some Time.
He was seated upon a low divan under an open
tent, and his companions reclined upon carpets.
To my surprise, he
had sufficient politeness to offer me a seat by his side upon the
divan. Our conversation soon became very animated, and his
astonishment when I related to him my travels increased with every
word. While we were talking, a nargilly of most singular beauty was
placed before me; it was made of light-blue enamel on gold,
ornamented with pearls, turquoises, and precious stones. For
politeness' sake, I took a few puffs from it. Tea and coffee were
also served, and afterwards the prince invited me to dinner. A
white cloth was spread upon the ground, and flat cakes of bread,
instead of plates, laid upon it: an exception was made for me, as I
had a plate and knife and fork. The dinner consisted of a number of
dishes of meat, among which was a whole lamb with the head, which
did appear very inviting; besides these, several pilaus, and a large
roast fish. Between the eatables stood bowls of curds and whey, and
sherbet: in each bowl was a large spoon. The lamb was carved by a
servant with a knife and the hand; he distributed the parts among
the guests, placing a piece upon the cake of bread before each one.
They ate with their right hand. Most of them tore off small morsels
of meat or fish, dipped them in one of the pilaus, kneaded them into
a ball, and put them into their mouths. Some, however, ate the fat
dishes without pilau; after each mouthful they wiped off the fat,
which ran over their fingers, on the bread. They drank a great deal
while eating, all using the same spoons. At the conclusion of the
meal, the prince, in spite of the strict prohibition of wine,
ordered some to be brought (my presence serving as an excuse). He
then poured out a glass for me, and drank a couple himself - one to
my health and one to his own.
When I told him that I intended to go to Persia, and in particular
to Teheran, he offered to give me a letter to his mother, who was at
court, and under whose protection I could be introduced there. He
wrote immediately, using his knee for want of a table, pressed his
signet ring upon the letter, and gave it to me; but told me
laughingly not to say anything to his mother about his having drank
wine.
After meal time, I asked the prince whether he would allow me to pay
a visit to his wife, - I had already learned that one of his wives
was with him. My request was granted, and I was led immediately
into a building, near which had formerly been a small mosque.
I was here received in a cool arched apartment by a remarkably
handsome young creature. She was the most beautiful of all the
women I had ever yet seen in harems. Her figure, of middling
proportions, was most exquisitely symmetrical; her features were
noble and truly classical; and her large eyes had a melancholy
expression: the poor thing was alone here, and had no society but
an old female servant and a young gazelle. Her complexion, probably
not quite natural, was of dazzling whiteness, and a delicate red
tinted her cheeks. The eyebrows only, in my opinion, were very much
deformed by art. They were in the form of a dark-blue streak, an
inch wide, which extended in two connected curves from one temple to
the other, and gave the face a somewhat dark and very uncommon
appearance. The principal hairs were not dyed; her hands and arms,
however, were slightly tattooed. She explained to me that this
shocking operation was performed upon her when she was only a child,
a custom which is also practised by the Mahomedan women in Baghdad.
The dress of this beauty was like that of the women in the pasha's
harem, but instead of the small turban, she wore a white muslin
cloth lightly twisted round the head, which she could also draw over
her face as a veil.
Our conversation was not very lively, as the interpreter was not
allowed to follow me into this sanctum. We were therefore obliged
to content ourselves with making signs and looking at one another.
When I returned to the prince, I expressed to him my wonder at the
rare beauty of his young wife, and asked him what country was the
cradle of this true angel. He told me the north of Persia, and
assured me, at the same time, that his other wives, of whom he had
four in Baghdad and four in Teheran with his mother, very much
excelled this one in beauty.
When I would have taken my leave of the prince to return home, he
proposed to me that I should remain a little while longer and hear
some Persian music. Two minstrels presently appeared, one of whom
had a kind of mandolin with five strings; the other was a singer.
The musician preluded very well, played European as well as Persian
melodies, and handled his instrument with great facility; the singer
executed roulades, and, unfortunately, his voice was neither
cultivated nor pure; but he seldom gave false notes, and they both
kept good time. The Persian music and songs had considerable range
of notes and variations in the melody; I had not heard anything like
them for a long time.
I reached home safely before sunset, and did not feel very much
fatigued, either by the ride of thirty-six miles, the terrible heat,
or the wandering about on foot. Only two days afterwards, I set out
on my road to the ruins of the city of Babylon.
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