A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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Last Of All, Were Some Priests And A
Crowd Of People.
The chief priest wore a kind of white {110} fool's cap, with three
points; the other persons, who consisted of men alone, had a kind of
white cloth bound round their head or arm.
I was lucky enough to be enabled to visit some of the summer palaces
and gardens of the nobility.
The finest of all was certainly that belonging to the Mandarin
Howqua. The house itself was tolerably spacious, one story high,
with very wide, splendid terraces. The windows looked into the
inner courts, and the roof was like those in European buildings,
only much flatter. The sloping roofs, with their multitude of
points and pinnacles, with their little bells and variegated tiles,
are only to be found in the temples and country-houses, but never in
the usual residences. At the entrance there were two painted gods:
these, according to the belief of the Chinese, keep off evil
spirits.
The front part of the house consisted of several reception rooms,
without front walls, and immediately adjoining them, on the ground
floor, elegant parterres; and on the first floor magnificent
terraces, which were also decorated with flowers, and afforded a
most splendid view over the animated scene on the river, the
enchanting scenery around, and the mass of houses in the villages
situated about the walls of Canton.
Neat little cabinets surrounded these rooms, from which they were
only separated by walls that in many cases were adorned with the
most artistic paintings, and through which the eye could easily
penetrate. The most remarkable of these walls were those composed
of bamboos, which were as delicate as a veil, and plentifully
ornamented with painted flowers, or beautifully written proverbs.
A numberless quantity of chairs and a great many sofas were ranged
along the walls, from which I inferred that the Chinese are as much
accustomed to large assemblages as ourselves. I observed some arm-
chairs most skilfully cut out of a single piece of wood; others with
seats of beautiful marble-slabs; and others again of fine coloured
tiles or porcelain. Among various objects of European furniture, we
saw some handsome mirrors, clocks, vases, and tables of Florentine
mosaic, or variegated marble. There was also a most extraordinary
collection of lamps and lanterns hanging from the ceilings, and
consisting of glass, transparent horn, and coloured gauze or paper,
ornamented with glass beads, fringe, and tassels. Nor was there any
scarcity of lamps on the walls, so that when the apartments are
entirely lighted up, they must present a fairy-like appearance.
As we had been fortunate enough to reach this house without being
stoned, we were emboldened to visit the Mandarin Howqua's large
pleasure-garden, situated on a branch of the Pearl stream, about
three-quarters of a mile from the house. We had, however, hardly
entered the branch of the river, before the crew wanted to turn
back, having observed a mandarin's junk, with all its flags hoisted,
a signal that the owner himself was on board.
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