The Herren Pagoda has three stories, with a pointed roof, and is
distinguished for its external sculpture. It has no balconies
outside, but, instead of this, a triple wreath of leaves round each
story. In the first and second story, to which access is gained by
more than usually narrow stairs, are some small altars with carved
idols. We were not allowed to go into the third story, under the
excuse that there was nothing to be seen there.
The villages we visited, resembled more or less, that we had seen
near the Half-way Pagoda.
During this journey I was an eye-witness of the manner in which the
missionaries dispose of their religious tracts. The missionary who
had been kind enough to accompany us, took this opportunity of
distributing among the natives some seeds that should bring forth
good fruit. He had 500 tracts on board our boat, and every time
that another boat approached us, a circumstance that was of frequent
occurrence, he stretched himself as far as possible over the side
with half a dozen tracts in his hand, and made signs to the people
to approach and take them. If people did not obey his summons, we
rowed up to them, and the missionary gratified them with his tracts
in dozens, and went his way rejoicing, in anticipation of the good
which he did not doubt they would effect.
Whenever we arrived at a village, however, matters reached even a
higher pitch. The servant was obliged to carry whole packs of
tracts, which in a moment were distributed among the crowd of
curious who had quickly gathered round us.
Every one took what was offered to him, as it cost nothing, and if
he could not read it - the tracts were in Chinese - he had at least
got so much paper. The missionary returned home delighted; he had
disposed of his 500 copies. What glorious news for the Missionary
Society, and what a brilliant article for his religious paper, he no
doubt transmitted to Europe!
Six young Englishmen made this same excursion up the Pearl stream
six months later, stopping at one of the villages and mixing with
the people. Unhappily, however, they all fell victims to the
fanaticism of the Chinese: they were most barbarously murdered.
There was now no trip of any distance left but one round the walls
of the town of Canton, {108} properly so called. This, too, I was
shortly enabled to undertake through the kindness of our good friend
the missionary, who offered to come as guide to Herr von Carlowitz
and myself, under the condition, however, that I should put on male
attire. No woman had ever yet ventured to make this trip, and he
thought that I ought not to venture in my own dress; I complied with
his wish, therefore, and one fine morning early we set out.
