A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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We Were Obliged To Pass Through The
Whole Town, Through The Deep River Taptai, Up And Down Hill, And
Over Shocking Roads, To Reach The Bungalow Of The Latter, So That We
Did Not Arrive There Till Late At Night.
Captain Henessey and his
family were already supping:
They received me with true cordiality,
and, although worn out with fatigue, and much travel-stained, I took
my place at their hospitable table, and continued a conversation
with this amiable family until a late hour of the night.
28th February. Unfortunately I was obliged to proceed on my journey
again this morning. Between Berhampoor and Ichapoor, there were the
most beautiful and varied plantations - corn, flax, cotton, sugar-
cane, poppies, dahl, etc. The heat had already began to be
oppressive (towards 108 degrees Fah.) I was at the same time
continually on the road from 4 o'clock in the morning, till 5 or 6
in the evening, and only seldom made a short halt on the banks of
some river, or under a tree. It was altogether impossible to travel
at night, as the heaths and jungles were frequently of great extent,
and moreover, somewhat infested with tigers, the presence of which
we experienced on the following day; besides all this, my people
were unacquainted with the road.
29th February. Today's stage was one of the most considerable; we
therefore started as early as 3 o'clock in the morning; the road
passed through terrible wastes and wild jungles. After we had
proceeded for some time quietly, the animals stopped short and
remained as if fixed to the ground, and began to tremble; their fear
soon communicated itself to my people, who shouted, without
intermission, the words "Bach! bach!" which means "Tiger! tiger!" I
ordered them to continue making as much noise as possible, in order
to scare away the animals if they really were near. I had some
jungle grass gathered and made a fire, which I kept constantly
blazing. However, I heard no howling, and observed no other
indication of our dreaded neighbour than the terror of my people and
cattle. Nevertheless, I awaited the sunrise this time with great
anxiety, when we continued our journey. We afterwards learnt that
scarcely a night passes in this neighbourhood without an ox, horse,
or goat being carried off by tigers. Only a few days previously, a
poor woman who was late in returning from gathering jungle grass,
had been torn to pieces. All the villages were surrounded with high
stone and mud walls, whether from fear of the wild beasts, or from
any other cause, I could not learn with certainty. These fortified
villages extend as far as Auranjabad, over a distance of 150 miles.
March 1st. Bodur is an unimportant village. Upon the road from
Indor to Auranjabad, there are no bungalows with rooms, and it is
very seldom that even an open one is to be found - that is, a
building with three wooden walls, over which a roof is thrown. We
found one of these bungalows in Bodur. It was indeed already taken
possession of by about a dozen Indian soldiers, but they withdrew
unasked, and gave up to me half of the airy chamber. During the
whole night they remained still and quiet, and were not the
slightest annoyance.
2nd March. Furdapoor, a small village at the foot of beautiful
mountains. As the poor oxen began to be wearied with travelling,
the driver rubbed them down every evening from head to foot.
3rd March. Adjunta. Before coming to this place we passed a
terrible rocky pass which might be easily defended. The road was
very narrow, and so bad that the poor animals could scarcely make
any way with the empty cars. On the heights of the pass, a strongly
fortified gate was placed, which closed the narrow road; it was,
however, left open in time of peace. The low ground and the heights
on the sides were rendered inaccessible by strong and lofty walls.
The view became more delightful at every step: romantic valleys and
ravines, picturesque masses and walls of rock lay on both sides,
immeasurable valleys spread themselves out behind the mountains,
while in front the view swept over an extensive open plain, at the
commencement of which lay the fortress of Adjunta. We had already
reached it at about 8 o'clock in the morning. Captain Gill resides
in Adjunta, and I had letters of introduction to him from Mr.
Hamilton. When I expressed a wish, after the first greeting was
over, to visit the famous rock temples of Adjunta, he deeply
regretted that he had not received a letter from me four-and-twenty
hours sooner, as the temples were nearer to Furdapoor than to
Adjunta. What was to be done? I was resolved upon seeing them, and
had but little time to lose, so I decided upon retracing my way. I
only provided myself with a small stock of provisions, and
immediately mounted one of the horses from the captain's stable,
which brought me past the rocky pass in a good hour. The road
towards the temples here turns off to the right into desolate,
barren mountain valleys, whose death-like stillness was unbroken by
the breathing of an animal, or the song of a bird. This place was
well calculated to raise and excite expectations.
The temples, twenty-seven in number, are excavated in tall
perpendicular cliffs, which form a semicircle. In some of the
cliffs there are two stories of temples, one over the other; paths
lead to the top, but these are so narrow and broken, that one is
frequently at a loss where to set the foot. Beneath are terrible
chasms, in which a mountain stream loses itself; overhead, the
smooth rocky surface extends several hundred feet in height. The
majority of the temples are quadrangular in form, and the approach
to the interior is through verandahs and handsome gateways, which,
from being supported on columns, appear to bear the weight of the
whole mass of rock.
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