A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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A Striking Feature In The Garden Is This Beautiful Water-Rose, Or
Lotus-Flower (Nymphaea Nelumbo), Which Was Originally A Native Of
China.
The Chinese admire this flower so much, that they have ponds
dug in their gardens expressly for it.
It is about six inches in
diameter, and generally white - very rarely pale red. The seeds
resemble in size and taste those of the hazel; and the roots, when
cooked, are said to taste like artichokes.
There are more than a hundred bonzes who reside in the temple of
Honan. In their ordinary dress, they differ nothing from the common
Chinamen, the only means of recognising them being by their heads,
which are _entirely_ shaved. Neither these nor any other priests
can boast, as I was told, of being in the least respected by the
people.
Our second excursion was to the Half-way Pagoda, so called by the
English from its lying half way between Canton and Whampoa. We went
up the Pearl stream to it. It stands upon a small eminence near a
village, in the midst of immense fields of rice, and is composed of
nine stories, 170 feet high. Its circumference is not very
considerable, but nearly the same all the way up, which gives it the
look of a tower. I was informed that this pagoda was formerly one
of the most celebrated in China, but it has long ceased to be used.
The interior was completely empty; there were neither statues nor
any other ornaments; nor were there any floors to prevent the eye
from seeing to the very top. On the outside, small balconies
without railings surround each story, to which access is gained by
steep and narrow flights of stairs. These projecting balconies
produce a very fine effect, being built of coloured bricks, very
artistically laid, and faced with variegated tiles. The bricks are
placed in rows, with their points jutting obliquely outwards, so
that the points project about four inches over one another. At a
distance, the work seems as if it were half pierced through, and
from the beautiful colours and fineness of the tiles, a person might
easily mistake the entire mass for porcelain.
While we were viewing the pagoda, the whole population of the
village had assembled round about us, and as they behaved with
tolerable quietness, we determined on paying a visit to the village
itself. The houses, or rather huts, were small and built of brick,
and with the exception of their flat roofs, presented nothing
peculiar. The rooms did not possess a ceiling of their own, but
were simply covered by the roof; the floor was formed of earth
closely pressed together, and the internal walls consisted partly of
bamboo-mats. What little furniture there was, was exceedingly
dirty. About the middle of the village was a small temple, with a
few lamps burning dimly before the principal divinity.
What struck me most was the quantity of poultry, both in and out of
the huts, and we had to take the greatest care to avoid treading on
some of the young brood.
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