Four beautiful horses were harnessed to an open
landau, and four servants, in Oriental liveries, ran by the side of
the carriage. The gentlemen had scarcely perceived my approach,
when they stopped, and sent a servant towards me; they, perhaps,
wished to know what chance had thrown a solitary European female
into this remote country. My servant, who already had the letter to
Mr. Hamilton in his hand, hastened to him directly, and gave it to
him. Mr. Hamilton read it hastily through, alighted from his
carriage immediately, came and received me very cordially. My
shabby clothes, faded by the sun, were of no account to him, and he
did not treat me with less respect, because I came without much
baggage, and without a train of attendants.
He conducted me himself to the bungalow, set apart for strangers,
offered me several rooms, and remained until he saw that the
servants had properly provided all conveniences. After he had given
me a servant for my own exclusive use, and had ordered a guard
before the bungalow, in which I was about to live alone, he took his
departure, and promised to send for me to dinner in an hour.
A few hundred paces distant from the bungalow is the palace of the
resident; it is a building of very great beauty, constructed of
large, square stones, in a pure Italian style of architecture.
Broad flights of steps led up into halls which are peculiarly
remarkable for their magnitude and beautifully arched roofs, the
latter being finer than any that I had yet seen. The saloons,
rooms, and internal arrangements corresponded to the high
expectations which the sight of the outside raised.
It was a Sunday, and I had the pleasure of finding the whole
European society of Indor assembled at the house of the resident.
It consisted of three families. My astonishment at the magnificence
surrounding me, at the luxuries at table, was yet more increased
when a complete, well-trained band of musicians commenced playing
fine overtures and some familiar German melodies. After dinner Mr.
Hamilton introduced the chaplain to me, a Tyrolese, named Naher.
This active man had established his chapel in the space of three
years, the congregation consisting chiefly of young natives.
I was invited to be present on the following morning at the first
operation performed here, by a European surgeon, on a patient under
the influence of ether. A large tumour was to be extracted from the
neck of a native. Unfortunately the inhalation did not turn out as
was expected: the patient came to again after the first incision,
and began shrieking fearfully. I hastily left the room, for I
pitied the poor creature too much to bear his cries. The operation
indeed was successful, but the man suffered considerable pain.
During breakfast, Mr. Hamilton proposed that I should exchange my
apartments in the bungalow for a similar one in his palace, because
the going backwards and forwards at each meal time was very
fatiguing. He placed at my disposal the rooms of his wife, who was
deceased, and appointed me a female servant.
After tiffen (lunch) I was to see the town, and be presented at
court. I employed the intermediate time in visiting Mr. and Mrs.
Naher. The latter, who was also a German, was moved even to tears
when she saw me: for fifteen years she had not spoken with a
fellow-countrywoman.
The town of Indor contains nearly 25,000 inhabitants; it is not
fortified; the houses are built in the same manner as those in
Udjein.
The royal palace stands in the centre of the town, and forms a
quadrangle. The middle of the front rises in the form of a pyramid,
to the height of six stories. A remarkably lofty and very handsome
gateway, flanked on both sides by round and somewhat projecting
towers, leads into the court-yard. The exterior of the palace is
completely covered with frescoes, for the most part representing
elephants and horses, and from a distance they present a good
appearance. The interior is separated into several courts. In the
first court, on the ground floor, is situated a saloon, surrounded
by two rows of wooden pillars. The Durwar (ministerial council) is
held here. In the first story of the same building a fine open
saloon is appropriated to the use of some sacred oxen.
Opposite this cattle-stall is the reception-room. Dark stairs,
which require to be lighted in broad daylight, lead to the royal
apartments. The stairs are said to be equally dark in almost all
the Indian palaces; they believe it is a security against enemies,
or, at least, that it makes their entrance more difficult. In the
reception saloon sat the queen, Jeswont-Rao-Holcar, an aged,
childless widow; at her side her adopted son, Prince Hury-Rao-
Holcar, a youth of fourteen years, with very good-natured features
and expressive eyes. Seats, consisting of cushions, were placed for
us by their side. The young prince spoke broken English, and the
questions which he put to me proved him to be well acquainted with
geography. His mundsch, {212a} a native, was represented as a man
of intelligence and learning. I could not find an opportunity,
after the audience, of complimenting him upon the progress which the
prince had made. The dress of the queen and of the prince consisted
of white Dacca muslin; the prince had several precious stones and
pearls upon his turban, breast, and arms. The queen was not veiled,
although Mr. Hamilton was present.
All the apartments and passages were crowded with servants, who,
without the slightest ceremony, came into the audience-hall, that
they might observe us more closely; we sat in a complete crowd.
We were offered sweetmeats and fruits, sprinkled with rosewater, and
some attar of roses was put upon our handkerchiefs.
