Handsome steps lead from the heights on the banks down to the river,
and Brahmins sit in pretty kiosks to take money from believers for
the honour of the gods. On one of the flights of steps lay a very
large tortoise. It might quietly sun itself there in safety - no one
thought of catching it. It came out of the sacred river; indeed, it
might, perhaps, be the incarnation of the god Vishnu himself. {204}
Along the river stood numbers of stone altars, with small bulls, and
other emblematical figures, also cut in stone. The town itself is
small and miserable, but the temple is large and handsome.
The priests were here so tolerant as to admit us to all parts of the
temple. It is open on all sides, and forms an octagon. Galleries
run round the upper part, one-half of which are for women, the other
for the musicians. The sanctuary stands at the back of the temple;
five bells hang before it, which are struck when women enter the
temple; they rung out also at my entrance. The curtained and closed
doors were then opened, and afforded us a full view of the interior.
We saw there a little group of idols carved in stone. The people
who followed us with curiosity commenced a gentle muttering upon the
opening of the doors. I turned round, somewhat startled, thinking
that it was directed against us and indicated anger, but it was the
prayers, which they repeated in a low voice and with a feeling of
devotion. One of the Brahmins brushed off the flies from the
intelligent countenances of the gods.
Several chapels join the large temple, and were all opened to us.
They contained red-painted stones or pictures. In the front court
sits a stone figure of a saint under a covering, completely clothed,
and with even a cap on the head. On the opposite bank of the river,
a small hill rises, upon which rests the figure of a large and
rather plump ox hewn in stone. This hill is called the "holy
mountain."
Captain Burdon has built a very pretty house near the holy mountain,
where he sometimes lives with his family. I saw there a fine
collection of stuffed birds, which he had brought himself from the
Himalayas. I was particularly struck by the pheasants, some of
which shone with quite a metallic lustre; and there were some not
less beautiful specimens of heathcocks.
I had now seen all, and therefore asked the doctor to order me a
conveyance to Indor, 180 miles distant, for the next day. He
surprised me with the offer, on the part of the king, to provide me
with as many camels as I required, and two sepoys on horseback as
attendants. I asked for two; the one for myself, the other for the
driver and the servants which Dr. Rolland sent with me.
CHAPTER XV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY CONTINUED.
TRAVELLING ON INDIAN CAMELS - MY MEETING WITH THE BURDON FAMILY - THE
DIFFERENT CLASSES OF WOMEN AMONG THE NATIVE POPULATION IN INDIA -
UDJEIN - CAPTAIN HAMILTON - INTRODUCTION AT COURT - MANUFACTURE OF ICE -
THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ADJUNTA - A TIGER HUNT - THE ROCK TEMPLES OF
ELORA - THE FORTRESS OF DOWLUTABAD.
14TH February. The camels were ordered at 5 o'clock in the morning,
but it was not until towards noon that they came, each with a
driver. When they saw my portmanteau (twenty-five pounds in
weight), they were quite puzzled to know what to do with it. It was
useless my explaining to them how the luggage is carried in Egypt,
and that I had been accustomed to carry very little with me on my
own animal: they were used to a different plan, and would not
depart from it.
Travelling on camels is always unpleasant and troublesome. The
jolting motion of the animal produces in many people the same ill
effects as the rocking of a ship on the sea; but in India it is
almost unbearable, on account of the inconvenience of the
arrangements. Here each animal has a driver, who sits in front and
takes the best place; the traveller has only a little space left for
him on the hinder part of the animal.
Dr. Rolland advised me at once to put up with the inconvenience as
well as I could. He told me that I should fall in with Captain
Burdon in the next day or two, and it would be easy to obtain a more
convenient conveyance from him. I followed his advice, allowed my
luggage to be carried, and patiently mounted my camel.
We passed through extensive plains, which were most remarkable for
some considerable flax plantations, and came to a beautiful lake,
near to which lay a very pretty palace. Towards evening, we reached
the little village of Moasa, where we stayed for the night.
In those countries which are governed by native princes, there are
neither roads nor arrangements for travelling; although in every
village and town there are people appointed whose business it is to
direct travellers on their way and carry their luggage, for which
they are paid a small fee. Those travellers who have a guard from
the king or aumil (governor), or a cheprasse with them, do not pay
anything for this attendance; others give them a trifle for their
services, according as the distance is greater or less.
When I reached Moasa, every one hastened to offer me their services -
for I travelled with the king's people, and in this part of the
country a European woman is a rarity. They brought me wood, milk,
and eggs. My table was always rather frugally furnished:
