Notara. We travelled a long distance through narrow
valleys, upon roads which were so stony that it was scarcely
possible to ride, and I thought every moment that the waggon must be
broken to pieces. So long as the sun was not scorching on my head,
I walked by the side, but I was soon compelled to seek the shade of
the linen covering of the wagon. I bound up my forehead tightly,
grasped both sides of the car, and submitted to my fate. The jungle
which surrounded us resembled in beauty and luxuriance that near
Baratpoor but it afforded me more amusement, as it was inhabited by
wild apes. They were tolerably large, with yellowish, brown hair,
black faces, and very long tails.
It was very pretty to see how anxious the mothers were about their
young. When I startled them, she took one upon her back, the other
clung to her breast, and with this double weight she not only sprung
from branch to branch, but even from tree to tree.
If I had only possessed somewhat more imaginative power, I should
have taken the forest for a fairy wood, for besides the merry
monkeys, I saw many remarkable things. The rock sides and debris to
the left of the road, for example, had the most singular and varied
forms. Some resembled the ruins of temples and houses, others
trees; indeed, the figure of a woman with a child in her arms, was
so natural, that I could scarcely help feeling a regret at seeing it
turned into this dismal lifelessness. Further on, lay a gate, whose
noble artistic construction so deceived me, that I long sought for
the ruins of the town to which it appeared to lead.
Not far distant from the jungle is the little town of Lakari,
situated upon the almost perpendicular declivity of a mountain
ridge, and also protected by fortifications. A beautiful pond, a
large well with an artificial portico, terraces with Hindoo idols
and Mahomedan funeral monuments, lie in very attractive disorder.
Before Notara I found several altars, with the sacred bull carved in
red stone. In the town itself stood a handsome monument, an open
temple with columns upon a stone terrace, which was surrounded with
fine reliefs, representing elephants and riders.
There was no caravansary at this place, and I was obliged to go
about the streets with my cumbrous equipage in search of a lodging;
but as no one would receive a Christian, not from any want of good
nature, but in consequence of an erroneous religious opinion that a
house which has been visited by an unbeliever is defiled. This
opinion also extends to many other matters.
There was no alternative left for me except to pass the night in an
open verandah.
In this town I saw a circumstance which proved the amiability of the
people. A donkey, that was maimed either from its birth or by an
accident, was dragging itself with great exertion across the street,
a task which it required several minutes to accomplish. Several
people who were coming that way with their loaded animals waited
with great patience, without making a single murmur or raising a
hand to drive the creature on. Many of the inhabitants came out of
their houses and gave it fodder, and every passer-by turned out of
the way for it. This feeling of sympathy touched me uncommonly.
11th February. On this, the thirteenth day of my journey, I reached
Kottah. I was very well satisfied with my servants and driver, and
indeed with the journey altogether! The owners of the caravansaries
had not charged me more than a native; and had afforded me all the
conveniences which the strict rules of religion allowed. I had
passed the nights in open chambers, even under the open sky,
surrounded by people of the poorest and lowest classes, and never
received the slightest ill-treatment either by word or deed. I
never had anything stolen, and when ever I gave any little trifle to
a child, {200} such as a piece of bread, cheese, or the like, their
parents always endeavoured to show their gratitude by other acts of
kindness. Oh, that the Europeans only knew how easily these simple
children of nature might be won by attention and kindness! But,
unfortunately, they will continue to govern them by force, and treat
them with neglect and severity.
Kottah is the chief city of the kingdom of Rajpootan. Here, as in
all those provinces which the English government has left under the
dominion of their native princes, there is an English official
appointed, who bears the title of the "Resident." These residents
might be properly called "kings," or at least the king's governors,
since the real kings cannot do anything without their consent.
These miserable shadows of kings dare not, for example, cross the
boundaries of their own states without permission of the resident.
The more important fortresses of the country have English garrisons,
and here and there small English military stations are established.
This control is in some respects beneficial to the people, in others
injurious. The custom of burning widows is done away with, and
strictly forbidden; as well as the horrible punishment of being
trodden to death by elephants, or dragged along, tied to their
tails. On the other hand, the taxation is increased, for the king
is obliged to pay a considerable tribute for the right of ruling
according to the will of the resident. This naturally comes out of
the pockets of the people. The King of Rajpootan pays annually
300,000 rupees (30,000 pounds) to the English government.
The resident at Kottah, Captain Burdon, was an intimate friend of
Dr. Sprenger's, who had previously acquainted him with my speedy
arrival. But, unfortunately, he was at that time inspecting the
different military stations; however, he had before his departure
made arrangements for my reception, and requested Dr. Rolland to see
them carried out.
