It is as perfect in its execution as that of the saint
Nizam-ul-din, and appears to have been erected by the same artist.
The palace of Feroze Schah is near New Delhi. It is indeed somewhat
in ruins, but there is much to be seen in the existing remains of
the building. The fore-court of the mosque was a short time since
cleared with great labour of the rubbish and masses of stone which
covered it, by the untiring zeal of Mr. Cobb, the esteemed editor of
the English Delhi News. It is in very good preservation. In this
palace stands the third metal column - Feroze-Schachs-Laht. The
inscriptions upon it show that it existed a hundred years before the
birth of Christ, and may therefore be considered as one of the
oldest monuments of India. It was brought here from Lahore at the
time this palace was built.
The Purana-Killa, or the old fortress of the palace of Babar, is
much decayed. From the height and style of the remaining fragments
of gateways and walls, an idea may be formed of the magnitude of the
palace.
The ruins of Loglukabad are in an advanced state of dilapidation,
and do not repay the trouble of a journey of seven miles.
The other numerous ruins are little more than mere repetitions of
those already described, with which, however, they cannot be
compared in size, elegance, and beauty. They may be of great
interest to antiquarians and historians; but by myself, I candidly
admit, they were not much valued.
I must not neglect to mention the English military station, which is
situated upon some low hills near New Delhi. The peculiar formation
of the ground renders a journey there extremely interesting: a
district of enormous blocks of red sandstone, between which
beautiful flowers were growing. There are numerous ruins here, much
the same as in Delhi.
CHAPTER XIV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY.
THE THUGS OR STRANGLERS - DEPARTURE - CATTLE-MARKET - BARATPOOR - BIANA -
WELLS AND PONDS - GOOD-NATURE OF THE INDIANS - POPPY PLANTATIONS - THE
SUTTIS - NOTARA - KOTTAH - DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN - THE ROYAL PALACE OF
ARMORNEVAS - AMUSEMENTS AND DANCES - THE HOLY VILLAGE OF KESHO-RAE-
PATUM.
In order to reach Bombay, I had two routes before me; the one leads
past Simla to the foot of the Himalayas, the other to the famous
rock temples of Adjunta and Elora. I would gladly have chosen the
former, and have penetrated as far as the principal chain of the
Himalayas - Lahore and the Indus; but my friends advised me not to
make the attempt, for the simple reason, that these mountains were
covered with deep snow, in which case I must have postponed my
journey for at least three months. As I was unable to wait so long,
I decided upon taking the latter road. In Calcutta, I had been
recommended not to continue my journey beyond Delhi at all. They
said the country was not under the control of the English
government, and the people were far less civilized. People
endeavoured more especially to excite my apprehension by terrible
accounts of the Thugs or stranglers.
These Thugs form a singular sect, whose object is robbery and
murder, and who, like the Italian banditti, are prepared to
undertake any atrocity for which they are paid. They must not,
however, in any case shed blood, and dare only make away with their
victim by strangling. The act is not considered as very criminal,
and the murderer absolves himself by a small present, which he gives
to his priest; but, if he sheds only one drop of blood, he falls
into the deepest disgrace, is expelled from his caste, and abandoned
even by his own associates.
Many travellers affirm that the Thugs are a religious sect, and that
they do not murder for the sake of plunder or of revenge, but in
order, according to their belief, to ensure a meritorious action. I
made many inquiries about this, and learnt from every one that it
was no religious compulsion, but hatred, revenge, or desire of gain,
which led to these acts. These stranglers are represented as
possessing a most extraordinary dexterity in their abominable trade,
united with the most untiring patience and perseverance; they
frequently follow the victims they have selected for months, and
strangle them either while sleeping, or by stealing behind them and
throwing a twisted cloth or a cord round their necks, which they
draw tight with such rapidity and force that death ensues
instantaneously.
In Delhi, I gained more information. I was assured that all these
dangers were exaggerated; that travellers were very rarely attacked
in India, and that the Thugs were much reduced in numbers.
Moreover, they did not make any attempt upon Europeans, as the
English government instituted the strictest search for the culprits.
With regard, therefore, to the danger, I was tolerably at ease, but
I had still to anticipate privation and fatigue.
The first part of the journey was to Kottah, distant 290 miles. I
had the choice of three modes of conveyance - palanquins, camels, or
oxen bailis. None of them are expeditious; there are no highroads,
and no organized accommodation for travelling; you must retain the
same men and animals to the end of the journey, and, at the utmost,
cannot go more than from twenty to twenty-two miles in one day. For
a palanquin, it is necessary to engage eight bearers, besides
several for the luggage. Although each does not receive more than
eight rupees a-month, out of which he pays his own expenses; still
the expense is heavy, because so many are required, and their return
journey must be paid for. Travelling on camels is also expensive,
and is the most inconvenient.