Our last visit on this day was to the beautiful monument of the
Vizier Sofdar-Dchang, which is also a mosque. In this monument I
was especially struck by the inlaid work of white marble in red
sandstone upon the four minarets, it was so diversified and so
delicate; so chastely executed that the most expert draughtsman
could not have produced it more correctly and delicately upon paper.
The same may be said of the sarcophagi in the principal temple,
which is hewn out of a block of fine white marble.
The monument is surrounded by a tolerably well-kept garden, laid out
in the European style.
At the end of the garden, opposite the mausoleum, stands a small
palace, principally belonging to the King of Lucknau. It is at
present kept in good condition by the few European inhabitants of
New Delhi. It contains a few articles of furniture, and serves for
the accommodation of visitors to these ruins.
We remained here over night, and, thanks to the good-hearted and
amiable Mrs. Sprenger, found every possible convenience we could
desire. The first and most agreeable thing after our long
wandering, was a well-furnished table. Such attentions are doubly
deserving of thanks, when it is remembered at what a great amount of
trouble they are procured. It is necessary on such excursions to
take not only provisions and a cook, but also cooking utensils,
table-services, bed-linen, and servants, enough in short for a small
establishment. The train of baggage, which is always sent on before
on these occasions, resembles a small emigration party.
On the following morning we went on to Kotab-Minar, one of the
oldest and most beautiful buildings of the Patanas (from which
people the Affghans derive their origin). The most wonderful part
of this monument is the so-called "Giant's Column," a polygon with
twenty-seven sides or half-round corners, and five stories or
galleries, whose diameter at the basement is fifty-four feet, and
whose height is twenty-six feet. A winding staircase of 386 steps,
leads to the top. This building is said to belong to the thirteenth
century, and to have been built by Kotab-ud-dun. The column is of
red sandstone, and only the exterior is of white marble; decorations
and wonderful sculptures are wound in broad stripes around the
column; these are so finely and neatly chiselled as to resemble an
elegant lace pattern. Any description of the delicacy and effect of
this work would be far exceeded by the reality. The column is
fortunately as well preserved as if it had only been standing about
a hundred years. The upper part leans a little forwards (whether
artificially, as in the tower at Bologna, is not decided); its top
is flat, like a terrace, which does not correspond with the
remainder of the architecture. It is not known whether anything
formerly stood upon it. The column was in its present condition
when the English conquered Delhi.
We mounted as far as the highest point, and a most charming view of
the whole remains of Delhi, the Jumna, and the unbounded plain,
opened itself here before us. The history of the people who once
ruled Hindostan may here be studied in the ruins of imperial towns,
lying one close beside the other. It was a great and imposing
prospect.
Many places where magnificent palaces and monuments formerly stood
are now cultivated fields. Wherever the ground is broken up,
fragments of ruins show themselves.
Opposite the tower or column of Kotab-Minar stands a similar
unfinished building, the base of which is considerably larger in
circumference than that of the finished one. It is supposed that
these two towers belonged to a magnificent mosque, {190} of which
some courts, gateways, columns, and walls still remain.
These few remains of the mosque are remarkable for the perfect
sculptures which covered the walls, gateways, etc., both outside and
inside. The entrance-gateway has a considerable height. The
columns in the courts are of Buddhist origin; the bell with long
chain is sculptured on them in relief.
In the fore-court of the mosque stands a metal column similar to
that at Allahabad, except that there is no lion upon its summit, and
its height is not more than thirty-six feet. It is defaced by
several marks and slight injuries, which are ascribed to the
Mongolians, who, when they conquered Delhi, attempted in their
destructive rage to pull down these columns; but they stood too
firmly, and all their exertions were insufficient to destroy any of
the inscriptions on them.
The remaining Patan or Affghan temples and monuments which lie
dispersed among the other ruins, resemble each other as much as they
differ from the Mahomedan and Hindoo buildings. The monuments of
this kind generally consist of a small round temple, with a not very
high cupola, surrounded by open arcades supported on pillars.
Here also, in the neighbourhood of Kotab-Minar, a hospitable
dwelling is to be found. A ruined building is fitted up, and three
of the rooms are furnished.
On the way homewards, we visited the observatory of the famous
astronomer, Dey Singh. If that at Benares has been seen, this may
well be passed by. Both were built by the same architect, and in
the same style; but that at Benares is well preserved, while the one
here is already much dilapidated. Some travellers consider this
memorial as one of the most wonderful works of Indian art.
Near the observatory stands the old madrissa (school-house), a large
building, with numerous rooms for teachers and pupils, and with open
galleries and halls, in which the teachers sat surrounded by groups
of youths. The building is rather neglected, but is partly
inhabited by private persons.
