We Were Landed On The Shore, And There Had Further
Time For Reflection On The Mutability Of Things.
In the white sand
there were distinct footprints of a large jaguar and cub, probably
come to prey on
The lazy alligators that were lying on the beach; and
I caught sight of a large spotted serpent, which glided into the low
jungle where the tiger also doubtless was in hiding.
After three days' detention here, a Brazilian packet took us off. On
stepping aboard, I saw what I thought to be two black pigs lying on
the deck. I assure the reader that it was some seconds before I
discovered that one was not a pig, but a man!
At sunset it is the custom on these river boats for all to have a
bath. The females go to one side of the ship, and the males to the
other; buckets are lowered, and in turn they throw water over each
other. After supper, in the stillness of the evening, dancing is the
order, and bare feet keep time to the twang of the guitar.
We occasionally caught sight of savages on the west bank of the
river, and the captain informed me that he had once brought up a bag
of beans to give them. The beans had been poisoned, in order that
the miserable creatures might be swept off the earth!
We landed at Concepcion, and I walked ashore. I found the only
British subject living there was a university graduate, but - a
prodigal son Owing to his habit of constant drinking, the authorities
of the town compelled him to work. As I passed up the street I saw
him mending a road of the "far country" There I procured five horses,
a stock of beads, knives, etc, for barter, and made ready for my land
journey into the far interior. The storekeeper, hearing of my plans,
strongly urged me not to attempt the journey, and soon all the
village talked. Vague rumors of the unknown savages of the interior
had been heard, and it was said the expedition could only end in
disaster, especially as I was not even going to get the blessing of
the Pai before starting. I was fortunate, however, in securing the
companionship of an excellent man who bore the suggestive name of
"Old Stabbed Arm"; and Dona Dolores (Mrs. Sorrows), true to her name,
whom I engaged to make me about twenty pounds of chipa, said she
would intercede with her saint for me. Loading the pack-horse with
chipa, beads, looking-glasses, knives, etc., Old Stabbed Arm and I
mounted our horses, and, each taking a spare one by the halter, drove
the pack-saddle mare in front, leaving the tenderhearted Mrs. Sorrows
weeping behind. The roads are simply paths through deep red sand,
into which the horses sank up to their knees; and they are so uneven
that one side is frequently two feet higher than the other, so we
could travel only very slowly.
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