Looking down we see patches of sugar cane and tobacco; groves of
bananas, cocoanut, and palm trees; hedges of strange growth; unknown
plants and vines, and fern-covered rocks.
Here and there is a rude cabin surrounded by bread-fruit and banana
trees. We pass picturesque little towns with blue and yellow houses and
quaint churches, their spires towering upward. In fifteen hours we would
reach San Juan, but we delay our journey in order to obtain a closer
view of the scenery and of the homes of the people.
Many happy hours we spend on the plantations in the country.
During these country rides and visits we get our knowledge of the animal
and plant life of the island.
Let us stop, then, for a few days, at a country home by the seashore.
A COUNTRY HOME.
The residence of this home we find to be of good size and divided into
rooms by partitions that reach only half way up to the roof. This is to
give a free circulation of air. The house is thatched with palm leaves,
and has a wide veranda running around it.
Mosquito curtains are used to keep out the swarms of sand flies and
mosquitoes that make the night uncomfortable.
All doors and windows are closed before sunset and not opened until the
moon is well up. Then large fires are lighted around the house to drive
the mosquitoes away. This is for our benefit, for the natives do not
mind these insects as much as we do. But we have other midnight
visitors.
Large fireflies fly in at the open windows and light up the room with
their fairy lamps. And such wonderful fireflies, over an inch long!
The people, the children especially, are very fond of these fireflies
and frequently keep little cages of them for pets. They feed them on
sugar-cane juice and bathe them as if they were birds.
[Illustration: COUNTRY HOME OF THE BETTER CLASS.]
Little crabs rattle gaily over the floor and sometimes crawl into our
shoes, where we find them in the morning; friendly but ugly lizards
croak from the walls and roof, where they pass the night hours in
catching insects.
These lizards are found in and about most of the houses and are
harmless, useful little fellows. They are six or seven inches long, of a
pale, yellowish color, mottled with brown.
Instead of taking a morning bath in our rooms, we take a dip in the warm
sea water. We find it hot, even very early in the morning; and as we
walk to the shore in our bathing suits, we make a large palm leaf do
duty as a sunshade.
When we dress for breakfast we examine our clothes very closely, for the
centipedes have a disagreeable way of taking strolls over one's clothing
and the bedding.
Our breakfast consists of turtle eggs, bread fruit, plantain and
cocoanut milk. Our meals are served on the veranda, and there we spend
the most of the day. Hammocks are swung from the beams, and, lying in
them, we drink in the cool sea air and feast our eyes upon the beautiful
surroundings.
In the shallow water near the shore we find great pink conch shells. The
fish in them we have made into soup for our dinner, and very good soup
we find it.
Sometimes we go out in the mountains with our host hunting for game, or
for mountain cabbage for our dinner. Perhaps others would like to know
what this mountain cabbage is, and we will tell them. It is the bud of a
palm tree, a part of the trunk of which, when young, is edible. When
cooked, it looks like very white cabbage; but the flavor is finer and
more delicate. It is sometimes eaten raw, as a salad.
The meat for our dinner consists of fish, and the flesh of the
armadillo, the agouti and the iguana.
These animals are queer looking creatures. As we wish to see them in
their haunts in the woods and fields, we will accompany our host on some
long walks and drives, in order to find out more about them.
* * * * *
ANIMAL LIFE.
When Columbus visited the West Indies, he was delighted by the beauty in
and about them. "I know not," he said, "where first to go; nor are my
eyes ever weary with gazing on the wonderful verdure. The singing of the
birds is such as to make one wish never to depart."
The wonderful beauty of the country of which he spoke is unchanged; but
we listen and look in vain for the singing birds. The hunter's gun has
caused the disappearance of large numbers of the birds. Those remaining
are found only in the forests.
Columbus spoke also of the flocks of parrots "whose bright wings
obscured the sun"; but we seldom see the brilliant plumage of these
birds on our excursions.
BIRDS.
There are said to be about one hundred and fifty kinds of birds on the
island of Puerto Rico. Among these are the mocking bird, the wild
canary, the sugar bird, the thrush, the humming bird, the owl, the hawk,
the dove, the cuckoo, the oriole, the nightingale, and the Guinea bird.
During the migrating season, many other birds fly over from other
islands.
Flamingoes and other water birds are numerous on the coast.
There is a parrot market in every port, however, and this is a popular
place of resort. Here are cool trees and drinking stands, or booths,
where cocoanut milk and cool drinks are sold.
The birds are not usually confined to cages, but are left to climb
about the booths. The natives love these birds and make great pets of
them. The birds are tame and quite accomplished in the art of begging.
When the passer-by extends his hand, they walk into it for the sake of
the gifts which they know will come.
