I was told of a more unjust sacrifice to
such ordinances than I ever heard of even in England. The
poor people formerly used to burn a plant, which grows on the
coast-rocks, and export the soda from its ashes; but a
peremptory order came out prohibiting this practice, and giving
as a reason that the partridges would have nowhere to build.
In my walks I passed more than once over the grassy plain
bounded by deep valleys, on which Longwood stands.
Viewed from a short distance, it appears like a respectable
gentleman's country-seat. In front there are a few cultivated
fields, and beyond them the smooth hill of coloured
rocks called the Flagstaff, and the rugged square black mass
of the Barn. On the whole the view was rather bleak and
uninteresting. The only inconvenience I suffered during my
walks was from the impetuous winds. One day I noticed
a curious circumstance; standing on the edge of a plain,
terminated by a great cliff of about a thousand feet in depth,
I saw at the distance of a few yards right to windward, some
tern, struggling against a very strong breeze, whilst, where
I stood, the air was quite calm. Approaching close to the
brink, where the current seemed to be deflected upwards
from the face of the cliff, I stretched out my arm, and
immediately felt the full force of the wind: an invisible
barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly calm air
from a strong blast.
I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and mountains
of St. Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the morning
of the 14th to descend to the town. Before noon I was on
board, and the Beagle made sail.
On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who
have beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate,
will at once be able to picture to themselves the appearance
of Ascension. They will imagine smooth conical hills of a
bright red colour, with their summits generally truncated,
rising separately out of a level surface of black rugged lava.
A principal mound in the centre of the island, seems the
father of the lesser cones. It is called Green Hill: its
name being taken from the faintest tinge of that colour,
which at this time of the year is barely perceptible from the
anchorage. To complete the desolate scene, the black rocks
on the coast are lashed by a wild and turbulent sea.
The settlement is near the beach; it consists of several
houses and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of
white freestone. The only inhabitants are marines, and some
negroes liberated from slave-ships, who are paid and victualled
by government.