Exclusive of spiders, which were
numerous, there were thirteen species. [4] Of these, one only
was a beetle. A small ant swarmed by thousands under the
loose dry blocks of coral, and was the only true insect which
was abundant. Although the productions of the land are
thus scanty, if we look to the waters of the surrounding sea,
the number of organic beings is indeed infinite. Chamisso
has described [5] the natural history of a lagoon-island in the
Radack Archipelago; and it is remarkable how closely its
inhabitants, in number and kind, resemble those of Keeling
Island. There is one lizard and two waders, namely, a snipe
and curlew. Of plants there are nineteen species, including
a fern; and some of these are the same with those growing
here, though on a spot so immensely remote, and in a different
ocean.
The long strips of land, forming the linear islets, have
been raised only to that height to which the surf can throw
fragments of coral, and the wind heap up calcareous sand.
The solid flat of coral rock on the outside, by its breadth,
breaks the first violence of the waves, which otherwise, in a
day, would sweep away these islets and all their productions.
The ocean and the land seem here struggling for mastery:
although terra firma has obtained a footing, the denizens of
the water think their claim at least equally good. In every
part one meets hermit crabs of more than one species, [6]
carrying on their backs the shells which they have stolen
from the neighbouring beach. Overhead, numerous gannets,
frigate-birds, and terns, rest on the trees; and the wood, from
the many nests and from the smell of the atmosphere, might
be called a sea-rookery. The gannets, sitting on their rude
nests, gaze at one with a stupid yet angry air. The noddies,
as their name expresses, are silly little creatures. But there
is one charming bird: it is a small, snow-white tern, which
smoothly hovers at the distance of a few feet above one's
head, its large black eye scanning, with quiet curiosity, your
expression. Little imagination is required to fancy that so
light and delicate a body must be tenanted by some wandering
fairy spirit.
Sunday, April 3rd. - After service I accompanied Captain
Fitz Roy to the settlement, situated at the distance of some
miles, on the point of an islet thickly covered with tall
cocoa-nut trees. Captain Ross and Mr. Liesk live in a large
barn-like house open at both ends, and lined with mats made of
woven bark. The houses of the Malays are arranged along
the shore of the lagoon. The whole place had rather a desolate
aspect, for there were no gardens to show the signs of
care and cultivation. The natives belong to different islands
in the East Indian archipelago, but all speak the same language:
we saw the inhabitants of Borneo, Celebes, Java, and
Sumatra.
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