There Seemed To Be Only Two White Men,
One Of Whom Introduced Himself As The Captain, And Asked Us, In French, To
Come On Board.
The vessel was the 'Gabrielle d'Estonville', of New
Caledonia, commanded by Captain Jean Labonne, and had put into Rockingham
Bay for water, during a 'beche-de-mer' expedition.
Anything to equal the
filth of the fair 'Gabrielle', I never saw. Her crew consisted of another
Frenchman besides the captain, and of seven or eight Kanakas, two of whom
had their wives on board. As perhaps this extraordinary trade is but
little known to the reader who has not resided in China, I will briefly
narrate how it is carried out.
From the neighbourhood of Torres Straits to about the Tropic of Capricorn,
extends, at a distance of fifty to a hundred miles from the shore, an
enormous bed of coral, named the Barrier Reef. There, untold millions of
minute insects are still noiselessly pursuing their toil, and raising fresh
structures from the depths of the ocean. Neither is this jagged belt -
though deadly to the rash mariner - without its uses. In the first place,
a clear channel is always found between it and the mainland, in which no
sea of any formidable dimensions can ever rise, and now that modern surveys
have accurately indicated where danger is to be found, this quiet channel
is of the greatest use to the vessels frequenting that portion of the
ocean, for they avoid the whole swell of the broad Pacific, which now
thunders against and breaks harmlessly on the huge coral wall, instead of
wasting its fury on the coast itself. In the second place on the Barrier
Reef is found the 'Holothuria', from which the 'beche-de-mer' is prepared.
It is a kind of sea-slug, averaging from one to over two feet in length,
and four to ten inches in girth. In appearance, these sea-cucumbers are
more repulsive, looking like flabby black or green sausages, and squirting
out a stream of salt water when pressed. But despite their disgusting
appearance, they are a most valuable cargo, from the high price they fetch
in the Chinese market, where they are a much-esteemed delicacy. The vessel
that goes in quest of 'beche-de-mer' takes several expert divers - usually
Kanakas, or South Sea Islanders - and having arrived at the ground they
propose fishing, a sort of head-quarters is established on some convenient
island, where vegetables are planted, to stave off the scurvy that would
otherwise soon attack the adventurers. This done the little vessel
proceeds to the edge of the reef, and begins work in earnest.
The sea-slug is found buried amidst the triturated sand, worn away by the
constant play of the waves, and only the experienced and keen-eyed Kanakas
can detect its whereabouts, by the fitful waving of the long feathery
tentacles surrounding the mouth of the fish, which immerses its body in the
sand. The vessel being anchored, her boat is got out, and pulled to the
smooth water within the reef, the divers keeping a keen scrutiny on the
milk-white floor for any indication of their prey. Suddenly, the man in
the bows holds up his hand, as a sign to desist from pulling. He drops
quietly into the clear water, and the length of time that elapses before
his black head reappears, is enough to make a bystander nervous. Often the
diver has to encounter his dread enemy the shark, and if cool and
collected, generally comes off victorious in the contest. The South Sea
Islanders have a thorough knowledge of the habits of this salt-water
pirate, and know that by keeping underneath him, they cannot be touched,
and they will fearlessly stab the intruder with their knives, and avail
themselves of his momentary departure to regain the boat. I have known one
instance of a native jumping into the water to distract the attention of a
shark that was swimming guard over his friend, and both escaped unhurt; but
still, despite their utmost skill, accidents do often occur. In shallow
water the 'beche-de-mer' is caught with a five-pronged instrument,
resembling an eel-spear. The animals are split open, boiled, pressed flat,
and dried in the sun, and after a sufficient number have been taken, they
are carried to the island rendezvous and there smoked with dry wood, which
last process converts the slug into genuine 'beche-de-mer', fit for the
market, and for the palates of Celestial epicures. I tried to cook some,
but after boiling it for a couple of hours in a quart pot, it came out like
a dirty piece of indian-rubber, and so tough that no teeth could penetrate
it.
Captain Labonne welcomed us very cordially - the sight of a strange face
must have been a godsend - and most hospitably asked us to share his
breakfast, but as it consisted only of dried fish, which smelt most
abominably, we declined, and he was very grateful for a couple of pots of
sardines which we gave him out of our slender stock. The 'Gabrielle' was
on her way to Cardwell for fresh provisions and water, and after the
dangers to be avoided had been pointed out by the pilot, we bade adieu to
Jean Labonne and his queer crew, though not before one of our party had
succeeded in jotting down the features of a Kanaka diver, his wife and
child.
AN AUSTRALIAN SEARCH PARTY - VI.
BY CHARLES H. EDEN.
WE now pulled for the mouth of the Macalister River, and on sighting the
bar shortly before eight o'clock, were glad to find but little surf
running. On our way we passed several water-snakes, one of which seemed of
large size, but we were too distant to form any accurate estimate of its
length. It was not altogether without misgivings that we encountered the
ridge of sand that extended completely across the entrance of the river.
Only one of our party had ever crossed it before, and it was known to be
very dangerous.
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