E. on our route for the coast; and on the 8th
of August arrived at the lofty range of mountains to which our course had
been directed. From the highest point of this range we had the most
extended prospect. From south by the west to north, it was one vast level,
resembling the ocean in extent, but yet without water being discerned,
the range of high land extending to the north-east by north, elevated
points of which were distinguished upwards of one hundred and twenty
miles.
From this point, in conformity to the resolution I had made on quitting
the Macquarie River, I pursued a north-east course; but after
encountering numerous difficulties from the country being an entire
marsh, interspersed with quicksands, until the 20th of August, and
finding I was surrounded by bogs, I was reluctantly compelled to take a
more easterly course, having practically proved that the country could
not be traversed on any point deviating from the main range of hills which
bound the interior; although partial dry portions of level alluvial land
extend from their base westerly to a distance which I estimate to exceed
one hundred and fifty miles, before it is gradually lost in the waters
which I am clearly convinced cover the interior. The alteration in our
course more easterly, soon brought us into a very different description
of country, forming a remarkable contrast to that which had so long
occupied us. Numerous fine streams, running northerly, watered a rich and
beautiful country, through which we passed until the 7th of September,
when we crossed the meridian of Sydney, as also the most elevated known
land in New South Wales, being, then in latitude 31. S. We were
afterwards considerably embarrassed and impeded by very lofty mountains.
On the 20th of September, we gained the summit of the most elevated
mountain in this extensive range, and from it we were gratified with a
view of the ocean, at a distance of fifty miles; the country beneath us
being formed into an immense triangular valley, the base of which
extended along the coast from the Three Brothers on the south, to the
high land north of Smoky Cape. We had the farther gratification to find
that we were near the source of a large stream running to the sea. On
descending the mountain, we followed the course of this river, increased
by many accessions, until the 8th of October, when we arrived on the
beach near the entrance of the port which received it; having passed
over, since the 18th of July, a tract of country near five hundred miles
in extent from west to east.
This inlet is situated in lat. 31. 25. 45. S., and long. 162. 53. 54. E.,
and had been previously noticed by Captain Flinders, but from the
distance at which he was necessarily obliged to keep from the coast, he
did not discover that it had a navigable entrance; of course our most
anxious attention was directed to this important point; and although the
want of a boat rendered the examination as to the depth of water in the
channel incomplete, yet there appeared to be at low water at least three
fathoms, with a safe though narrow entrance between the sand-rollers on
either hand. Having ascertained thus far, and that by its means the fine
country on the banks, and in the neighbourhood of the river, might be of
future service to the colony, I took the liberty to name it Port
Macquarie, in honour of your excellency, as the original promoter of
the expedition.
On the 12th of October, we quitted Port Macquarie on our course for
Sydney; and although no charts can be more accurate in their outline and
principal points than those of Captain Flinders, we soon experienced how
little the best marine charts can he depended upon, to show all the
inlets and openings upon an extensive line of coast. The distance his
ship was generally at, from that portion of the coast we had to travel
over, did not allow him to perceive openings, which, though doubtless of
little consequence to shipping, yet presented the most serious
difficulties to travellers by land; and of which, if they had been laid
down in the chart, I should have hesitated to have attempted the passage
without assistance from the sea-ward: as it is, we are indebted for our
preservation, and that of the horses, to the providential discovery of a
small boat on the beach, which the men with the most cheerful alacrity
carried upwards of ninety miles on their shoulders, thereby enabling us
to overcome obstacles, otherwise insurmountable.
Until within these few days, I hoped to have had the satisfaction to
report the return of the expedition without accident to any individual
composing it; but such is the ferocious treachery of the natives along
the coast to the northward, that our utmost circumspection could not save
us from having one man (William Blake), severely wounded by them; but by
the skillful care bestowed upon him by Dr. Harris, (who accompanied the
expedition as a volunteer, and to whom upon this occasion, and throughout
the whole course of it, we are indebted for much valuable assistance); I
trust his recovery is no longer doubtful.
The general merits of Mr. Evans are so well known to your excellency,
that it will here be sufficient to observe, that by his zealous attention
to every point that could facilitate the progress of the expedition, he
has endeavoured to deserve a continuance of your excellency's
approbation.
Mr. Charles Fraser, the colonial botanist, has added many new species to
the already extended catalogue of Australian plants, besides an extensive
collection of seeds, etc.; and in the collection, and preservation, he
has indefatigably endeavoured to obtain your excellency's approval of his
services.
I confidently hope that the Journal of the expedition will amply evince
to your excellency the exemplary and praiseworthy conduct of the men
employed on it; and I feel the sincerest pleasure in earnestly soliciting
for them your excellency's favourable consideration.
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