- We proceeded between four and five miles down the river,
which was named Hastings River, in honour of the
Governor General of
India; the vale gradually opening to a greater width between steep and
lofty hills, the soil on which was very stony, but rich, and covered with
fine grass two or three feet high. At the place where we stopped, small
rich flats began to extend on either side, and confirmed our hopes that
we should find a more regular country as we approached the sea. The route
which we had travelled lay over steep and sharp points of mountains
ending on the river, but did not offer any great obstruction. Yet we were
obliged to leave the horse which had failed the day before, half-way, as
he dropped through utter weakness, though unladen. These valleys and
hills are astonishingly rich in timber of various kinds, many new, and
their botanic supplies were inexhaustible. Indeed our cargo now
principally consists of plants.
September 27. - The morning fine and clear. Sent back for the horse left
yesterday, which with some difficulty was brought to the tent. Observed
our latitude to be 31. 23. 10. S., longitude by estimation 152. 8. E.,
variation 8. 22. E. We this day cleaned all the arms, and put our
military appointments in order to guard against any hostile attempts that
might be made by the natives, who are reported to be in this quarter
numerous and treacherous.
September 28. - As we proceeded down the river, the vale still continued
to open on either hand, the hills receding from each bank of the stream
from two to three miles. The land on the more elevated spots, and
irregular low hills, was strong but of good soil, covered with grass: the
flats which occurred alternately on both sides of the river were very
rich, the grass long and coarse; the timber, blue gum and apple tree. As
the points of the higher hills sometimes closed on the river, we found it
convenient to cross it, which in the course of the day we did no less
than three times. In the hollows of the higher hills were thick brushes
of the same description as those at the Five Islands. About six miles and
a half down the river it was joined by a considerable stream from the
northward, running through a fine and spacious valley. The accession of
this water materially altered the appearance of the river, as it began to
form long and wide reaches, with alternate rapids over a shingly bottom.
The northern stream was named Forbes's River, in honour of the Marquis of
Hastings' nephew. Although our proximity to the sea seemed to preclude
the probability of Hastings River being joined by any other considerable
waters; yet its present size made us a little anxious to find that it had
a serviceable discharge into the ocean. The ground over which we travelled
being very favourable to the weak state of the horses, we accomplished
between eight and nine miles. Kangaroos abounded; four were this day
killed. Marks of flood were observed to the height of sixteen feet,
but the river appeared now to be in its lowest state, and the sides of
the barren mountains showed that there had been no rain of any consequence
for a considerable time.
September 29. - The country we passed through is what is generally known
in New South Wales as open forest land, with occasionally small flats on
the river: steep hills sometimes ended on the river, and north and south
of us were detached ranges of a similar description. The whole face of
the country was abundantly covered with good grass, which, having been
burnt some time, now bore the appearance of young wheat. Six miles down
the river it was joined by a fine stream from the southward, apparently
watering a spacious valley. We crossed this, and named it Ellenborough
River, in honour of the Chief Justice of England. We proceeded about
three miles farther before we halted at the edge of a thick detached
brush [Note: Many very beautiful shrubs inhabit these shaded thickets,
of which the following may serve as a specimen. Tetranthera dealbata,
BROWN'S PRODR.; Cryptocarya glaucescens, BR., genera of laurinae.
The Australian sapota fruit, Achras australis, BR.; Cargillia australis,
a date plum. Myrtus trinervia of Smith, and Ripogonum album, BR.],
which came nearly down to the water's edge. In this brush was a
quantity of fine red cedar trees, affording us reason to hope, that this
valuable wood might, as we advanced to the coast, be found in yet greater
abundance. The timber generally might be termed heavy, consisting of blue
gum, stringy bark, and iron bark, with fine forest oaks. The stones on
the surface of the land were hard and splintery, being principally of
coarse quartz; some hard sandstone was also seen: the rocks in the river
were of a fine dark blue colour, singularly hard and slippery. Although
we had seen no natives, there were abundant signs of them. This season
probably is better calculated for them to procure their food on the coast
than in the woods.
September 30. - Our progress this day was greatly impeded by thick
brushes, which, covering the sides of the hills, ended on the river: some
of them were upwards of a mile in extent, and we were obliged to cut a
road to enable the horses to pass through them. There were several rich
flats on both sides of the river; the hilly projections ending
alternately at the several bends of the stream. The obstruction offered
by the brushes excepted, the road was no wise difficult: the hills were
stony, with rocky summits: the river's course was over large rocks and
pebbles; it was fordable in several places, with intervening deep
reaches. It was late in the afternoon before we had accomplished six
miles, and halting on a flat bounded easterly by extensive brush, I
resolved to cross the river.
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